Once I reached the tarmac I decided to contunue as it was dry and a bright evening, especially considering the amount of rain we had, had all day. The concrete river crossings were higher than before so I got my feet wet. I drove up the step switch backs up towards the pass at 4300 metres and it started to get cold as I drove into the clouds. For 25 kms I had only 3 centre line dashs viz. I was cold but the viz was the main problem. The landslides were still everywhere but no problem for cars or bikes but a bit narrow for lorries and buses. As soon as I passed tehtop the cloud cover cleared and it was a pleasant drive down into Ollantaytambo were I arrived at 2230hrs. The resturant were dave had a curry was closed, in fact nearly every thing ws closed so I again decided to continue onto Urubamba. I was on reserve fuel and no fuel staions were open until I arrived in Urubamba were I managed to get 94 octaine fuel. It was now 2330 and just stating to rain so time for cover and bed. I drive up the hill and manage to pitch my tent under a shelter used to sell local stuff to tourists. I sleep well until 0530 and sun rise.
19th Feb
I drive into Cusco for 0700 hrs and have a good breakfast and then wake Dave about 0800.
We visit the DHL office to find that my part for the Honda is in Lima and we have to complete loads of legal documents and pay the duty before the parcel will be released to Cusco and even then we will have to wait a further 3 days. We are told if we go to Lima it may speed things up.
We decide to leave Cusco and head for Lima ( we have been in Cusco for 17 nights) and that morning there was another demonstration and Fred ( from Canada) arrives on his BMW R1200 GS after having to drive though fields to get into town due to the violence at the road blocks. That evening we go out and eat Guinea pig for the first time (OK)
20thFeb
We leave town by 0700 hrs with a couple from Argentina ( Pablo and Mariela) who had not been able to leave town yesterday due to the road blocks and threats against them. Three bikes and four people should have less problems. We notice lots of rubish on the roads like huge rocks, tree trunks, glass, telegraph poles and stones. The roads are a mess for miles and though most of the towns today.
I notice I now have a wheel whobble below speeds of 60 kph. The previous evening I had topped up the rear tyre to 40psi from only 20psi. Roly´s tyre is getting worse as the day progress. We stop in a dirty town for lunch and Pablo and Mariela order us the set menu for 8 Sols each. We have chichen soup for starters and Pablo´s has a whole foot in it which does slightly put us all off!
Dave has trouble eating his main chicken course after this!
After lunch Dave discovers the rear tyre on Roly´s bike has a small bulge in the side wall. This tyre ( Avon Gripster) was new only 2850 miles ago in Mendoza. We have no choice but to continue but Roly´s bike how has a permanant wobble at slow sppeds, we push on for Nasca but going around sharp corners is a little intresting and makes steering difficult. We rise up high again over more tight switch backs into the mountains and it gets colder at we reach the top at 4300 metres. At the top we had hoped to drop down again but discover the Alti plateau is huge and goes on for miles. We spend hours driving across flat open rock covered plateau like Dartmoor on a much bigger scale. The Granite boulders are huge and the rivers also. Dave in the last town drove passed Pablo, Mariela and myself so we spent the next four hours trying to catch him without any luck as he was driving like a pocessed being. The plateau was long high and cold and we eventually caught Dave doing 110 kph along a straight. He was surprised to see us from behind and he was by now on reserve fuel so was considering having to camp by the side of the road. We were not going to make Nasca today, Roly still doing 100 kph on the straights but the clouds were low thick and cold so viz ws not good and progress was very slow. As we drop down off the Alti Plateau the roads become full of pot holes and soon turn into mud and some gravel and this continues into town. The town is filthy, muddy and the worse town we have ever seen. We ask for the best hostal in town and were not impressed still we have no choice annd pay 40Sols per room. No hot water and we are all cold. dave and Roly go out to get some hot food and a beer but no beer in town so we have a bottle of red wine and some more chicken. The local ATM was broken so we were getting low on funds.
21st Feb
We manage to get black coffee in the only clean cafe in town, fill up with fuel and again rise up over more poor roads full of pot holes. Roly´s rear tyre getting worse and difficult to steer at speeds less than 60kph. By 1430 hrs the roads finally get better and as we approach Nasca it also gets warmer and sunny. We soon find a nice hotel with swimming pool and book in and imediately book our flights over the Nascxa lines on a small 6 seater plane. The hotel is a massive US$ 15 ahead and the flights US$50 each. We are advise to only have a light late lunch (1500hrs) as the flight may be a little rough. We again eat the set local menu exept Dave who has Pasta. We see an excellant BBC documentary DVD on the Nasca lines and then board the small single prop Cesna at 1700 hrs. We have a 35 min flight over the lines which as very intresting but also a bit disapointing and certainly difficult to photograph as the plane banks over to each side so we can all get a view in turn. We were the last flight of the day and also saw the sun set.
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