Puelba is about 400 kms on very fast toll road (120kph) with a legal speed limit of 110kph but single lane with a good hard shoulder, up over the mountains again. the road is more like a motorway with very few turning on or off. The tolls cost me US$30 to Puebla and today I use lots of petrol. I have spent in excess of US$100 each day for the last 4 days as I have covered a lot of miles, used toll roads and therefore used a lot of petrol (Daily - accommodation US$20, all food US$10, petrol US$70).
Saturday, 19 April 2008
Drop bike and pull muscle picking it up
I arrive at Oaxaca about 1030 hrs and stop by the side of the road to read the map and immediately drop the bike onto the pavement. I manage to just pick it up just before some one comes to my aid. Locals are so friendly and helpful where I have been. On picking up the bike I strain my inside groin leg muscle and its quite sore. Next stop is Oaxaca airport which is well signposted and 25kms out of town on a brand new fast road. I manage to find an English speaking Aduna lady but there is no main office and the airport is a brand new International airport but has no Aduna office, I am told by my Aduna lady that I will have to go back to my entry state (Chiapas) and get a temporary bike import document there. She can not believe I have come so far without the correct bike documents and so comes out to see the bike and is most interested in it and the number plate! I finally leave the airport and am wished good luck as we agree it is impractical to go back now to Chiapas and I head for a toll road (Autopiste) to Puebla.
Friday, 18 April 2008
Two more dogs attack but 2 stones stop them dead
Tonight the only food is from a road side lean too with corrugated iron roof and no side walls, beside the road. The wind is blowing, lorries hair past and then brake for the speed humps so quite noisy. I have 8 small fajitas which are very good and a coke but I am expecting another dose of Mexico belly due to the lack of standard cleanliness and on account the food has probably been kept warm for hours. Still nothing new, been there before and all helps with the diet! I give the bike the once over, chain lube, oil levels etc and do a little repacking. Today I saw 2 huge vultures ( may be condors) eating a dog kill in the middle of the road. Good views today but the sky was kind of sandy and not clear as though sand was mixed in the air which made the views less clear to see in the mountains, later it rained again. The temperature in Mexico City today is 27 degrees C. there are no international phones in Internet cafes in Mexico, Guatemala or Honduras ( unlike most previous countries) so I have been unable to phone home for ages.
Since leaving Bogota my mobile phone has not worked ( tri band)but works again in Mexico, so I replace the 2nd broken fuse in the charger lead with a bit of silver paper and I am again able to recharge it. I believe I may need a quad band phone to work south of here.
Thursday 20th March
I am up 0650 hrs and need to do loads of kms today. I head up north into the mountains again and due to the cold have to replace my jacket sleeves even though I am in bright sun shine. I head for Oaxaca (pronounced Ohacker) I get stopped at an army check paint again but not searched this time. The roads are twisty but good and at 0930 hrs I stop to fill up the main fuel tank as I think I am about to run out of fuel and there are no petrol stations up here. I decant my last 5 litres of spare fuel and just hope there is a fuel station before Oaxaca which is more than 60 kms away (available fuel) other wise I will have a 20 km walk! While filling the bike with fuel I notice two noisy fierce dogs ahead at the next corner which do not look or sound bike friendly. I pack up, redress and pick up two small rocks as ammunition and place these on my tank bag. I pull away and manage to just get into 2nd gear and then sure enough the two dogs start there attack of me, as they cross the road and I am trying to accelerate I pick up the rocks with my left hand and hurl them at the two dogs and to my surprise both rocks hit their targets and both dogs stop dead and give out yelps, fantastic aim and very satisfying considering the number of dogs that have attacked me during the last 4 months. The dogs got within 3 metres of me and I feel quite pleased with my self considering I had two dogs, two rocks and used my left hand.
I arrive in Oaxaca at about 1030 hrs and drive out to the airport which is 25 kms outside town.
Wednesday, 9 April 2008
Mexico at last (the final frontier)
A BMW R1200 GS Adventure drives passed as I am getting my Mexican entry into my passport. I go back to the boats but he is not there but I am told he is having lunch in the hotel/restaurant. I find Rudy from Boulder, Colorado and we chat about our trips as we had come from opposite directions, we both order lunch and we share experiences. He's going east and also does not know about the lack of a bridge. He gives me the low down on Mexico. I give him my Guatemala map. In the end I decide to stay here the night and share a room with Rudy in exchange for me buying supper tonight. Six more Mexican bikes arrive and many are riding 2 up ( wife's and girlfriends), they also have a GMC pick up truck for luggage and spares. The bikes are BMW's and KTM's and look new. They are all visiting the Yaxchilan ruins so are in a hurry to check into the hotel and catch a boat this afternoon. We agree to catch up later when they return.
Rudy and I go down to the boats on the river and organise his trip across for tomorrow morning. The price starts at US$ 70 + extra for labour, in the end they agree on US$50 all in the same as I had paid. That afternoon we chat and I make a plan for a route north though Mexico ( Rudy had just done). In the evening I also catch up with the Mexican group of bikers and we agree that somewhere between 13 and 16 days is realistic to get to San Diego, California.
Tuesday 18th March
Mexican style breakfast this morning and then see Rudy + BMW R1200 GS on to the boat, take lots of photo's as was not possible to get photo's of my own bike loading experience! I manage to leave the hotel by 0800 hrs and I head for the Mayan ruins of Palenque. The roads are good but again spoilt by unmarked speed ramps in every small town or village. The speed ramps mean that you have to drop to 2nd gear to pass though the village which is another pain in the back side! After getting lost for about 30 mins I arrive at the Palenque ruins site at 1200 hrs. The site is very crowded and I have to unpack my bike and carry all my luggage and bike clothes up to the main gate for safe keeping. I decide to wear shorts, Crocs and a T shirt only as its extremely hot and sunny. I have to queue for an entrance ticket and have no local currency so pay in US$4.80. The site is huge and there are too many people around ( not as large as Tikal).
I spend about 2 hours on site and get back to the bike and leave by 1430 hrs after walking and climbing miles in very hot sunny conditions. I take even more pictures of the stones and then head for San Cristobal which is a long drive though the mountains of which the last 2 hours are cold. It is now 1830 hrs and just starting to get dark, the roads are very twisty, lots of speed humps and a few pot holes and then miles of fine gravel on tarmac which I hate, so progress is slow. I then run out of fuel in the mountains and my reserve supply is not there ( some how I have already used it without knowing). Luckily I have been carrying 10 litres of fuel in Jerry cans so top up and then carry on after a short worry that I may have a blocked carb main jet. I still can not work out how I mange to used my reserve fuel!
San Cristobal is a nice small old colonial town with little streets, full of cars and people. At the 2nd bank I find an ATM and draw 3000 Peso (US$300) and spreed it around 3 wallets. I then find a hotel with a courtyard at 400 peso which is expensive but again its been a long day. I have a good hot shower and also manage to wash my smelly clothes.
I visit an Internet cafe that evening and discover I have some bad news from the UK ( no one has died) which annoys me for the next few days until I can reply with my views which then makes me feel better and I put the whole matter behind me as there is nothing I can do about it and I need to enjoy myself and remain positive. No one is going to spoil my trip of a life time which had been planned for about 5 years.
Wed 19th March
Up and pack 0700 hrs but my bike is blocked in by a car and I don't manage to leave until 0815 hrs as it takes ages to find the owner of the car. I decide I have to go and try and find the local Aduna (Customs) but after over an hour give up, buy fuel and oil and leave for Tuxtta Gutierrez (TG) about 60 kms away. TG also has an International airport so I will go there for the Aduna as it will be easy to find as all airports are well sign posted. The airport in TG is brand new and 25 kms outside town in the wrong direction. After some hassle parking, I discover the brand new international airport has no Aduna office which I just can not believe. I do mange to speak to an Aduna officer who also speaks English and she just can not believe I have got so far without any vehicle paper work . She informs me the correct procedure would be to go back to the same state in Mexico where I had entered and gain the correct paper work. She finds it so hard to believe that I have been though about 3 or 4 daily army road blocks and got his far she wants to see the bike and number plate. After some discussion she wishes me well and I leave west towards the most windy place in Central America. I was warned that I must cross this area early in the morning on a motor bike. The area is about 150 kms long and I start my crossing at 1400 hrs and of course I am the only motorbike for the whole time. The wind is not constant like Patagonia so I get blown back and forth across the road towards on coming trucks. I do however finally get across the low lying area between the two mountains ranges by 1630 hrs.
This morning I had seen 3 other motorbike travellers going the opposite way so they had crossed the area in the AM. Still it's a challenge to make things more difficult. It also rained hard for the 1st time for weeks so I had to stop and replace my jacket sleeves. It is not too cold just a little uncomfortable. After 2 hrs the rain stops and I soon dry out and warm up and then need my sunglasses again. (on my 4th pair now as always breaking them or leave than at fuel stations- they cost about US$1.50 each time). Today I am stopped twice by the army and at one stop have to unpack for a luggage search. I am however not asked for any papers today!
I continue west on the low ground and then climb up again, 1st hotel closed so find another with some help from the shop assistant in the Farmica.. Hotel 180 Pesos (US$18) and has an enclosed courtyard for the bike.
Rudy and I go down to the boats on the river and organise his trip across for tomorrow morning. The price starts at US$ 70 + extra for labour, in the end they agree on US$50 all in the same as I had paid. That afternoon we chat and I make a plan for a route north though Mexico ( Rudy had just done). In the evening I also catch up with the Mexican group of bikers and we agree that somewhere between 13 and 16 days is realistic to get to San Diego, California.
Tuesday 18th March
Mexican style breakfast this morning and then see Rudy + BMW R1200 GS on to the boat, take lots of photo's as was not possible to get photo's of my own bike loading experience! I manage to leave the hotel by 0800 hrs and I head for the Mayan ruins of Palenque. The roads are good but again spoilt by unmarked speed ramps in every small town or village. The speed ramps mean that you have to drop to 2nd gear to pass though the village which is another pain in the back side! After getting lost for about 30 mins I arrive at the Palenque ruins site at 1200 hrs. The site is very crowded and I have to unpack my bike and carry all my luggage and bike clothes up to the main gate for safe keeping. I decide to wear shorts, Crocs and a T shirt only as its extremely hot and sunny. I have to queue for an entrance ticket and have no local currency so pay in US$4.80. The site is huge and there are too many people around ( not as large as Tikal).
I spend about 2 hours on site and get back to the bike and leave by 1430 hrs after walking and climbing miles in very hot sunny conditions. I take even more pictures of the stones and then head for San Cristobal which is a long drive though the mountains of which the last 2 hours are cold. It is now 1830 hrs and just starting to get dark, the roads are very twisty, lots of speed humps and a few pot holes and then miles of fine gravel on tarmac which I hate, so progress is slow. I then run out of fuel in the mountains and my reserve supply is not there ( some how I have already used it without knowing). Luckily I have been carrying 10 litres of fuel in Jerry cans so top up and then carry on after a short worry that I may have a blocked carb main jet. I still can not work out how I mange to used my reserve fuel!
San Cristobal is a nice small old colonial town with little streets, full of cars and people. At the 2nd bank I find an ATM and draw 3000 Peso (US$300) and spreed it around 3 wallets. I then find a hotel with a courtyard at 400 peso which is expensive but again its been a long day. I have a good hot shower and also manage to wash my smelly clothes.
I visit an Internet cafe that evening and discover I have some bad news from the UK ( no one has died) which annoys me for the next few days until I can reply with my views which then makes me feel better and I put the whole matter behind me as there is nothing I can do about it and I need to enjoy myself and remain positive. No one is going to spoil my trip of a life time which had been planned for about 5 years.
Wed 19th March
Up and pack 0700 hrs but my bike is blocked in by a car and I don't manage to leave until 0815 hrs as it takes ages to find the owner of the car. I decide I have to go and try and find the local Aduna (Customs) but after over an hour give up, buy fuel and oil and leave for Tuxtta Gutierrez (TG) about 60 kms away. TG also has an International airport so I will go there for the Aduna as it will be easy to find as all airports are well sign posted. The airport in TG is brand new and 25 kms outside town in the wrong direction. After some hassle parking, I discover the brand new international airport has no Aduna office which I just can not believe. I do mange to speak to an Aduna officer who also speaks English and she just can not believe I have got so far without any vehicle paper work . She informs me the correct procedure would be to go back to the same state in Mexico where I had entered and gain the correct paper work. She finds it so hard to believe that I have been though about 3 or 4 daily army road blocks and got his far she wants to see the bike and number plate. After some discussion she wishes me well and I leave west towards the most windy place in Central America. I was warned that I must cross this area early in the morning on a motor bike. The area is about 150 kms long and I start my crossing at 1400 hrs and of course I am the only motorbike for the whole time. The wind is not constant like Patagonia so I get blown back and forth across the road towards on coming trucks. I do however finally get across the low lying area between the two mountains ranges by 1630 hrs.
This morning I had seen 3 other motorbike travellers going the opposite way so they had crossed the area in the AM. Still it's a challenge to make things more difficult. It also rained hard for the 1st time for weeks so I had to stop and replace my jacket sleeves. It is not too cold just a little uncomfortable. After 2 hrs the rain stops and I soon dry out and warm up and then need my sunglasses again. (on my 4th pair now as always breaking them or leave than at fuel stations- they cost about US$1.50 each time). Today I am stopped twice by the army and at one stop have to unpack for a luggage search. I am however not asked for any papers today!
I continue west on the low ground and then climb up again, 1st hotel closed so find another with some help from the shop assistant in the Farmica.. Hotel 180 Pesos (US$18) and has an enclosed courtyard for the bike.
Tikal National Park and Mexico border
Sunday 16th March
Woken by lorries going over the bridge at day break ( still dark) and boats buzzing up and down river. I go and collect my bike from next door and order a Guatemalan breakfast ( papaya, scrambled eggs, black stuff may be a type of rice and coffee). leave hostel by 0700 hrs and north though more mountains at 5000rpm as little traffic today, refuel at 0830 hrs for 205 local and more Coke. Good road and arrive at border of the national park at 1115 hrs. The Tikal national park is 222 sq kms and the entrance road to the centre is 17kms long. I am given an entrance ticket which is timed and I will have to hand it in at the other end as the speed limit is 45kph. So I speed and stop to take pictures. At the end there is some choices- three hotels min price US$65 per night or camping at US$5. Guess what I take- yes camping, why carry all that kit and not use it! and my 70mm air/down mattress is so comfy its often better than some cheap hotel beds. Tikal site entrance is 150 local ( US$20) for tourist but only 10 local for locals which even I in my filthy state can not pass for! Apart from the lack of Spanish lingo!
I quickly set up camp and lock all valuables into the panniers, and then set off at a quick march to the main Plaza between two huge pyramids which was very impressive and each pyramid was higher than the surrounding trees which were over 50 metres. The whole site was huge so I spend 5 and a half hours walking, and climbing any thing that stood still. I reckon I saw all there was to see ( or what had been uncovered) and of course took loads more pictures of stones! I also saw monkeys, birds and little beer like animals with long tails that came very close and were good tree climbers. I did however not see any jaguars or snakes which was a relive.
Climbing the pyramids was allowed except for a couple and gave me fantastic views over the thick jungle towards other pyramids that just popping out of the tree line. Amassing when you consider these were built between 200BC and 900 AD. Sadly the older ones were used by the Mayan to build the bigger newer ones and usually on top of the older structures.
I finally have had enough even though it is difficult to appreciate the scale of the place in such a short time, I have been stung twice by some huge bee thing (4 x the size of a UK bee) once in the chest and once on the elbow. I walk back to the 1st local inn and try to order a beer and some food but can not get any service despite going up to the bar, after what seemed like 20/30 mins I leave and go back to my tent and set my my mattress and sleeping bag before it gets dark. I then go to the 2nd inn and try to order food, but its not available until 1900 hrs so I have a couple of beers and chat to a guy from USA who's on holiday with his daughter. Later the daughter ( 20's) joins him and has just seen a spider the size of her hand on the hotel stairs. Thank goodness I have a sewn in ground sheet! My ankles are being bitten to death my mosquito's.
I put my most expensive sticker yet ( Guatemala at US$ 3.34) on the pannier to join my other collection ( these are my only souvenirs as cost little and weight nothing and make good discussion points with locals)
Most tourist on site are either local, French, German or from USA.
As time goes on I rather enjoy travelling on my own as long as each day I set myself a challenge. I now have about 15 days + a few spare to get though Mexico and I should be able to clear the border tomorrow after deciding on a final route.
Lat night I had to sleep with my IPOD as the guy in the next tent about 50 metres away snores too loud. On leaving Tikal there is a nice large lake with small town which would be worth staying at if I had more time ( I could have stayed in hind sight but knowledge is power and I didn't know that then)
I have two choices tomorrow to get to the Mexico border.
both start with 2100 kms of good tarmac followed by:
1. Gravel roads for 120 kms this side of the border and then better roads once I cross into Mexico if the maps are correct.
2. Good roads this side with short gravel roads followed by unknown roads for miles.
I opt for option 1 and finally get to the start of the 120 kms of gravel or what I think is the correct road as there are little in the way of road signs. It should take me about 2 hours to get to the border now, there is no other traffic, no signs and only farms along the way. I start to wonder why no one wants to live near the border when usually there is a quick buck to be made.
After about an hour I come across a gas ( petrol) station in the middle of know where and then an hour latter a migration office after nearly driving over a long snake crossing the gravel road. It was very long ( 1000mm) thin and fast.
I get my passport stamped for exit from Guatemala and then ask for the whereabouts of the Aduna. They look at me as if I am quite mad. There is no Aduna here as the road stops ahead at the river which is impassable, deep and fast flowing. The map just says border crossing and makes no mention of a lack of bridges. The roads though do appear on the map but are just not joined up across the river! More options, I get chatting to a group in a minibus and they can't believe I am here, they came across the river in a long canoe which holds 20 people and takes 40 minutes from the Mexico slip way down river. These canoes have 40 or 50 hp tiller steer outboard engines and I am told are certainly not big enough for bike of my size. The group from USA reckon I will have to go back for 5 or 6 hours to the northern road and even then they can not tell me whether there is a bridge there and I remember the roads may be non existent. I decide to go on the extra 2kms and check out the river for my self. It certainly is large, fast flowing, deep and there are two long narrow boats moored along side. I talk to the owners and they say for US$ 50 they will take me, my luggage and bike across to the Mexico entry point which is 40 mins down stream.
It seems the best option when you consider the option of another 6 hrs driving back from where I came. But how are we going to get that heavy bike up into the canoe? They agree to supply 4 strong guys and we will wheel and lift it into the canoe floor using the floor boards as ramps.
I agree and drive down to the waters edge and off load all luggage and panniers. I then back the bike towards the 1st ramp set up on the bow of the long boat/canoe. There is a second plank into the floor of the boat. I get off the bike and together the 5 of us man handle the bike up and down the 2 ramps and safely into the middle/front of the boat. We then load the other luggage and all get aboard and turn around in the fast flowing river, we ferry glide down stream pasted huge rocks and small whirl pools and the skipper spends most of his time on his mobile, while one crew member goes for a swim to cool off. After 40 mins passing other boats going in the opposite direction we arrive at a large beach and slip way where there are about 20 other similar boats.
Three phone calls later the ramps are put back and I have to drive the bike this time off the bow, up to the bow is OK as I can reach the sides with my feet, but then I lose all contact with the ground and have to drive down a narrow plank unable to see if my back wheel is going to stay on the ramp.. Any way we make it to the paddle beach and reload the bike and I pay my US$50. there were only 2 boats at the Guatemala end but there are at least 20 at the Mexico end. It turns out that the main trade is taking tourist from buses to the Mayan site of Yaxchilan further down stream by 40 mins. Although on the opposite bank it is part of Mexico and they are very proud of it. I get my change in Mexican Pesos and discover the exchange rate to 10:1
I drive up the slope and find the Mexican migration office, I get my passport stamped and discover there is also no Aduna here and I am told I need to go to the next large city and get the bike paper work sorted out there.
Woken by lorries going over the bridge at day break ( still dark) and boats buzzing up and down river. I go and collect my bike from next door and order a Guatemalan breakfast ( papaya, scrambled eggs, black stuff may be a type of rice and coffee). leave hostel by 0700 hrs and north though more mountains at 5000rpm as little traffic today, refuel at 0830 hrs for 205 local and more Coke. Good road and arrive at border of the national park at 1115 hrs. The Tikal national park is 222 sq kms and the entrance road to the centre is 17kms long. I am given an entrance ticket which is timed and I will have to hand it in at the other end as the speed limit is 45kph. So I speed and stop to take pictures. At the end there is some choices- three hotels min price US$65 per night or camping at US$5. Guess what I take- yes camping, why carry all that kit and not use it! and my 70mm air/down mattress is so comfy its often better than some cheap hotel beds. Tikal site entrance is 150 local ( US$20) for tourist but only 10 local for locals which even I in my filthy state can not pass for! Apart from the lack of Spanish lingo!
I quickly set up camp and lock all valuables into the panniers, and then set off at a quick march to the main Plaza between two huge pyramids which was very impressive and each pyramid was higher than the surrounding trees which were over 50 metres. The whole site was huge so I spend 5 and a half hours walking, and climbing any thing that stood still. I reckon I saw all there was to see ( or what had been uncovered) and of course took loads more pictures of stones! I also saw monkeys, birds and little beer like animals with long tails that came very close and were good tree climbers. I did however not see any jaguars or snakes which was a relive.
Climbing the pyramids was allowed except for a couple and gave me fantastic views over the thick jungle towards other pyramids that just popping out of the tree line. Amassing when you consider these were built between 200BC and 900 AD. Sadly the older ones were used by the Mayan to build the bigger newer ones and usually on top of the older structures.
I finally have had enough even though it is difficult to appreciate the scale of the place in such a short time, I have been stung twice by some huge bee thing (4 x the size of a UK bee) once in the chest and once on the elbow. I walk back to the 1st local inn and try to order a beer and some food but can not get any service despite going up to the bar, after what seemed like 20/30 mins I leave and go back to my tent and set my my mattress and sleeping bag before it gets dark. I then go to the 2nd inn and try to order food, but its not available until 1900 hrs so I have a couple of beers and chat to a guy from USA who's on holiday with his daughter. Later the daughter ( 20's) joins him and has just seen a spider the size of her hand on the hotel stairs. Thank goodness I have a sewn in ground sheet! My ankles are being bitten to death my mosquito's.
I put my most expensive sticker yet ( Guatemala at US$ 3.34) on the pannier to join my other collection ( these are my only souvenirs as cost little and weight nothing and make good discussion points with locals)
Most tourist on site are either local, French, German or from USA.
As time goes on I rather enjoy travelling on my own as long as each day I set myself a challenge. I now have about 15 days + a few spare to get though Mexico and I should be able to clear the border tomorrow after deciding on a final route.
Lat night I had to sleep with my IPOD as the guy in the next tent about 50 metres away snores too loud. On leaving Tikal there is a nice large lake with small town which would be worth staying at if I had more time ( I could have stayed in hind sight but knowledge is power and I didn't know that then)
I have two choices tomorrow to get to the Mexico border.
both start with 2100 kms of good tarmac followed by:
1. Gravel roads for 120 kms this side of the border and then better roads once I cross into Mexico if the maps are correct.
2. Good roads this side with short gravel roads followed by unknown roads for miles.
I opt for option 1 and finally get to the start of the 120 kms of gravel or what I think is the correct road as there are little in the way of road signs. It should take me about 2 hours to get to the border now, there is no other traffic, no signs and only farms along the way. I start to wonder why no one wants to live near the border when usually there is a quick buck to be made.
After about an hour I come across a gas ( petrol) station in the middle of know where and then an hour latter a migration office after nearly driving over a long snake crossing the gravel road. It was very long ( 1000mm) thin and fast.
I get my passport stamped for exit from Guatemala and then ask for the whereabouts of the Aduna. They look at me as if I am quite mad. There is no Aduna here as the road stops ahead at the river which is impassable, deep and fast flowing. The map just says border crossing and makes no mention of a lack of bridges. The roads though do appear on the map but are just not joined up across the river! More options, I get chatting to a group in a minibus and they can't believe I am here, they came across the river in a long canoe which holds 20 people and takes 40 minutes from the Mexico slip way down river. These canoes have 40 or 50 hp tiller steer outboard engines and I am told are certainly not big enough for bike of my size. The group from USA reckon I will have to go back for 5 or 6 hours to the northern road and even then they can not tell me whether there is a bridge there and I remember the roads may be non existent. I decide to go on the extra 2kms and check out the river for my self. It certainly is large, fast flowing, deep and there are two long narrow boats moored along side. I talk to the owners and they say for US$ 50 they will take me, my luggage and bike across to the Mexico entry point which is 40 mins down stream.
It seems the best option when you consider the option of another 6 hrs driving back from where I came. But how are we going to get that heavy bike up into the canoe? They agree to supply 4 strong guys and we will wheel and lift it into the canoe floor using the floor boards as ramps.
I agree and drive down to the waters edge and off load all luggage and panniers. I then back the bike towards the 1st ramp set up on the bow of the long boat/canoe. There is a second plank into the floor of the boat. I get off the bike and together the 5 of us man handle the bike up and down the 2 ramps and safely into the middle/front of the boat. We then load the other luggage and all get aboard and turn around in the fast flowing river, we ferry glide down stream pasted huge rocks and small whirl pools and the skipper spends most of his time on his mobile, while one crew member goes for a swim to cool off. After 40 mins passing other boats going in the opposite direction we arrive at a large beach and slip way where there are about 20 other similar boats.
Three phone calls later the ramps are put back and I have to drive the bike this time off the bow, up to the bow is OK as I can reach the sides with my feet, but then I lose all contact with the ground and have to drive down a narrow plank unable to see if my back wheel is going to stay on the ramp.. Any way we make it to the paddle beach and reload the bike and I pay my US$50. there were only 2 boats at the Guatemala end but there are at least 20 at the Mexico end. It turns out that the main trade is taking tourist from buses to the Mayan site of Yaxchilan further down stream by 40 mins. Although on the opposite bank it is part of Mexico and they are very proud of it. I get my change in Mexican Pesos and discover the exchange rate to 10:1
I drive up the slope and find the Mexican migration office, I get my passport stamped and discover there is also no Aduna here and I am told I need to go to the next large city and get the bike paper work sorted out there.
Cheap hostel in tropical paradise on waters edge
The road is excellent and fast and there appears to be no police or at least any one who cares about the speed all the traffic is doing. Every one seems to be doing 120kph when the max speed should be 80 kph. Tonight we get a nice red sunset and I've had a nice hot day which is fine as long as I can keep the air rushing though my clothes. By 1730 hrs I arrive at Rio Dulce and drive over a huge arched bridge just a bit smaller than the Saltash bridge over the river Tamar. I stop for photos even though there is meant to be no stopping, every one seems to be at the road/bridge side chatting and selling items. Below me and back on the shore nearly under the bridge where I have come from is a little back packers hostel and restaurant. The place is made of wood, standing on what looks like telegraph poles over the waters edge with a corrugated iron roof. The buildings and eating/ drinking areas are half over the rivers edge and the back is up against the trees. It looks ideal for a night. I go back and down under the bridge and find the place, its full unless I want to stay in a dormitory. I agree ( might off set what I spent last night) The dormitory is huge with about 30 bunk beds and built over the waters edge and probably full of young nymphomaniacs ( in my dreams)! I choose a top bunk over looking the water next to the shower in the corner. There is now a gentle inshore breeze so I go to the restaurant and order Nachos, beans, sour cream, cheese etc and of course a litre of cerveza. What more could any man want. Imagine Saltash sailing club right on the waters edge and over hanging the water on stilts, hot tropical sun and a gentle breeze, Caribbean music, a restaurant, beer, lime and salt and you might be close to this place. To top it all off its cheap especially considering last nights stay which came to US$ 106. There are lots of little boats bobbing about between the dorm and the restaurant, there is an Internet cafe next to the dorm.
During booking in I met a girl from Totnes who's been in the town of Antigua learning Spanish for a week. There are lots of boats going up and down the river with dodgy lights and all going fast. The slipway is next door to the bar where I am sitting watching the world go bye. I sit there considering my position and think this is the best night of the trip and all I am missing is a good woman for company ( she's the other side of the world) Its a great setting, low lights, balloons, music, good beer, water, boats in fact heaven + of course not to mention the small of 2"T" oil and outboards.
The bay is huge but smaller than Plymouth sound and there are lights all along the opposite shore. The bridge is high and huge and lit up. I have one more small beer just in time before the locals arrive by small boat and the music gets louder and more head banger in style. Off to bed before my dream is spoilt by noisy locals! The rest of the dorm is full of chatting young backpackers but never the less I drop of to sleep.
During booking in I met a girl from Totnes who's been in the town of Antigua learning Spanish for a week. There are lots of boats going up and down the river with dodgy lights and all going fast. The slipway is next door to the bar where I am sitting watching the world go bye. I sit there considering my position and think this is the best night of the trip and all I am missing is a good woman for company ( she's the other side of the world) Its a great setting, low lights, balloons, music, good beer, water, boats in fact heaven + of course not to mention the small of 2"T" oil and outboards.
The bay is huge but smaller than Plymouth sound and there are lights all along the opposite shore. The bridge is high and huge and lit up. I have one more small beer just in time before the locals arrive by small boat and the music gets louder and more head banger in style. Off to bed before my dream is spoilt by noisy locals! The rest of the dorm is full of chatting young backpackers but never the less I drop of to sleep.
Mayan ruins of El Puente and Copan
14th March
I manage to find my way out of Tegucigalpa with surprising little difficultly, good job the compass doesn't lie. I go though Comayage and then on to Siugatepeque where I try and find a bank around the main Plaza. Its very hot again and its only 1000 hrs. the 1st ATM wont work the 2nd bank has no ATM th e3rd wont work and the 4th has no ATM. Oh dear no cash and no one hear seems to accept a credit card (up until now I have only been able to use my credit card about 6 times in three and a half months). I leave town and then manage to buy fuel on my VISA! Apparently there is an ATM 2 kms out of town at a shopping centre. I stop and after another frustrating time with the machine I discover the problem. You have to put your card in up side down, silly me for not reading the Spanish instructions or understanding the worn off drawings. I now have 2000 local currency. Roads are good except for the pot holes and the lorries and pick ups coming at you on my side of the road ( remember motor bikes don't matter, they can get out of the way! Overtaking vehicles coming towards you just continue if they see a motorbike. I am just sick to death of the shit drivers, no brake lights and no indicators and also just pull onto the highway without looking. They all need locking up!
After a minor unplanned detour I get on the correct road to Santa Rosa de Copan which is about 100kms and its only 1430 hrs now. Lunch today consists of a cheese and ham sandwich in white processed bread ( the only sandwiches in all of SA and CA!) Oh for a nice whole meal sloppy sandwich with any thing other than soapy tasteless cheese and ham.
I drive slowly west to Copan the roads are hilly and the area green but dry and the trees are not thick like I would expect a jungle to be. In fact I have seen little thick jungle yet on the whole trip. By the middle of the day it is extremely hot as soon as I stop. The temperature is pleasant before 1000 hrs and after 1600 hrs. I stop at El Puente and pay 55 local (US$5) to see a small Mayan site but it is a little disappointing. I am however the only tourist there and have two armed guards (Army) on site with me! I take lots of photos and climb all over the monuments and go inside two. I leave by 1530 hrs and drive another 60 kms to Copan. The 1st hotel has a nice sign and a long cobble drive, looks expensive and it is at US$80 a night. Stuff it, I stay, it has a jacuzzi and swimming pool and I have done 4 countries in 5 days.
I now have 4 people e-mailing me and wanting the Honda Africa Twin- so I send them all photos and hope someone will buy it before the trip finishes in three weeks time. I hear from James and he made it to Cartagena and will find a yacht to take him around to Colon.
My hotel is 2kms from the Copan ruins which open at 0800 hrs. I go for a swim, but the pools cold after the jacuzzi so i go back to the jacuzzi. I reckon to have about 4 days in Guatemala , leaving me about 18 days for Mexico. All Honduras appears to be hilly, green, dry and seems to have lots of grass. The locals burn all their rubbish and grass on the sides of the roads and in fact this is much the same in Nicaragua except there they have corrupt police! Bastards! At least in Costa Rica I was guilty of speeding!
I oil the bike chain daily unless I think I will be driving on sand or gravel roads. It makes a mess of the back of the engine but I am sure its better this than wearing out another chain set. I need to top up the oil level only if I get to do long periods at 5000rpi or 120kph on hot days. Adjusting the chain tension is difficult as the bike needs to be fully loaded with rider to check which is a bit difficult on your own. Lying in the jacuzzi tonight I can watch the milky way and shooting stars though the palm trees overhead.
I manage to replace my mobile phone fuse with a piece of silver paper and can now charge it again. Know one can tell me of the road conditions the other side of the border which is only about 12kms away, my map suggests they will be gravel. My smart hotel is called Posada real de Copan. www.posadarealdecopan.com
15th March
I see the sun rise across the jungle from my hotel room and of course take some more photos. I now have about 6MB's of photos and most seem to be landscapes, buildings and rocks! I walk to the Copan ruins and am there just as they open, pay my entrance (US$18) and have a good look a round before anyone else arrives on site. The local traders selling tourist souvenirs have not even set up yet! By 1130 hrs I'm done and it is now very hot. I have climbed all temples, hills and seen all that's possible so walk back to the hotel.
Quick check of bike and top up oil however spill loads of oil as now need a small funnel as Dave took the last one to Quito. All wheel bearings appear OK, adjusted and oiled chain last night. Have a quick wash and head off without having a swim, but not without having a nice pasta and shrimp lunch. I arrive at the border by 1230 hrs. The Honduras side is closed for lunch but after 15mins I mange to get the bike and me stamped out and hand over my bike import document. I then gain entry into Guatemala and go to the Aduna for the bike import document. I need to pay 40 local to the bank there but there closed for lunch until 1330 hrs. After a wait, more photo's, Coke and more water into my camel pack ( always amuses the locals when I top up my bike jacket with 2 litres of water) I manage to pay and get my receipt, go back to the Aduna office and get my bike import document. I give the guy there all my Costa Rica coins for his children and he is grateful and had been very helpful.
Guatemala is much the same as Honduras but roads are better and faster so I often cruise at 5000rpi of about 110/120 kph. The drivers are still mad. I stop at another Mayan site called Quirigua at 1630 hrs and it's due to close at 1700 hrs so I am allowed in FOC. Quick tour and photos, in extreme heat carrying my tank bag and bike jacket! I thought there would be a hotel here but no such luck, but guy on gate says its only 75kms to Rio Dulce. I push on to the Caribbean coast and a large inlet/river spanned by a huge bridge ( which turns out to be the largest bridge in all of Central America).
I manage to find my way out of Tegucigalpa with surprising little difficultly, good job the compass doesn't lie. I go though Comayage and then on to Siugatepeque where I try and find a bank around the main Plaza. Its very hot again and its only 1000 hrs. the 1st ATM wont work the 2nd bank has no ATM th e3rd wont work and the 4th has no ATM. Oh dear no cash and no one hear seems to accept a credit card (up until now I have only been able to use my credit card about 6 times in three and a half months). I leave town and then manage to buy fuel on my VISA! Apparently there is an ATM 2 kms out of town at a shopping centre. I stop and after another frustrating time with the machine I discover the problem. You have to put your card in up side down, silly me for not reading the Spanish instructions or understanding the worn off drawings. I now have 2000 local currency. Roads are good except for the pot holes and the lorries and pick ups coming at you on my side of the road ( remember motor bikes don't matter, they can get out of the way! Overtaking vehicles coming towards you just continue if they see a motorbike. I am just sick to death of the shit drivers, no brake lights and no indicators and also just pull onto the highway without looking. They all need locking up!
After a minor unplanned detour I get on the correct road to Santa Rosa de Copan which is about 100kms and its only 1430 hrs now. Lunch today consists of a cheese and ham sandwich in white processed bread ( the only sandwiches in all of SA and CA!) Oh for a nice whole meal sloppy sandwich with any thing other than soapy tasteless cheese and ham.
I drive slowly west to Copan the roads are hilly and the area green but dry and the trees are not thick like I would expect a jungle to be. In fact I have seen little thick jungle yet on the whole trip. By the middle of the day it is extremely hot as soon as I stop. The temperature is pleasant before 1000 hrs and after 1600 hrs. I stop at El Puente and pay 55 local (US$5) to see a small Mayan site but it is a little disappointing. I am however the only tourist there and have two armed guards (Army) on site with me! I take lots of photos and climb all over the monuments and go inside two. I leave by 1530 hrs and drive another 60 kms to Copan. The 1st hotel has a nice sign and a long cobble drive, looks expensive and it is at US$80 a night. Stuff it, I stay, it has a jacuzzi and swimming pool and I have done 4 countries in 5 days.
I now have 4 people e-mailing me and wanting the Honda Africa Twin- so I send them all photos and hope someone will buy it before the trip finishes in three weeks time. I hear from James and he made it to Cartagena and will find a yacht to take him around to Colon.
My hotel is 2kms from the Copan ruins which open at 0800 hrs. I go for a swim, but the pools cold after the jacuzzi so i go back to the jacuzzi. I reckon to have about 4 days in Guatemala , leaving me about 18 days for Mexico. All Honduras appears to be hilly, green, dry and seems to have lots of grass. The locals burn all their rubbish and grass on the sides of the roads and in fact this is much the same in Nicaragua except there they have corrupt police! Bastards! At least in Costa Rica I was guilty of speeding!
I oil the bike chain daily unless I think I will be driving on sand or gravel roads. It makes a mess of the back of the engine but I am sure its better this than wearing out another chain set. I need to top up the oil level only if I get to do long periods at 5000rpi or 120kph on hot days. Adjusting the chain tension is difficult as the bike needs to be fully loaded with rider to check which is a bit difficult on your own. Lying in the jacuzzi tonight I can watch the milky way and shooting stars though the palm trees overhead.
I manage to replace my mobile phone fuse with a piece of silver paper and can now charge it again. Know one can tell me of the road conditions the other side of the border which is only about 12kms away, my map suggests they will be gravel. My smart hotel is called Posada real de Copan. www.posadarealdecopan.com
15th March
I see the sun rise across the jungle from my hotel room and of course take some more photos. I now have about 6MB's of photos and most seem to be landscapes, buildings and rocks! I walk to the Copan ruins and am there just as they open, pay my entrance (US$18) and have a good look a round before anyone else arrives on site. The local traders selling tourist souvenirs have not even set up yet! By 1130 hrs I'm done and it is now very hot. I have climbed all temples, hills and seen all that's possible so walk back to the hotel.
Quick check of bike and top up oil however spill loads of oil as now need a small funnel as Dave took the last one to Quito. All wheel bearings appear OK, adjusted and oiled chain last night. Have a quick wash and head off without having a swim, but not without having a nice pasta and shrimp lunch. I arrive at the border by 1230 hrs. The Honduras side is closed for lunch but after 15mins I mange to get the bike and me stamped out and hand over my bike import document. I then gain entry into Guatemala and go to the Aduna for the bike import document. I need to pay 40 local to the bank there but there closed for lunch until 1330 hrs. After a wait, more photo's, Coke and more water into my camel pack ( always amuses the locals when I top up my bike jacket with 2 litres of water) I manage to pay and get my receipt, go back to the Aduna office and get my bike import document. I give the guy there all my Costa Rica coins for his children and he is grateful and had been very helpful.
Guatemala is much the same as Honduras but roads are better and faster so I often cruise at 5000rpi of about 110/120 kph. The drivers are still mad. I stop at another Mayan site called Quirigua at 1630 hrs and it's due to close at 1700 hrs so I am allowed in FOC. Quick tour and photos, in extreme heat carrying my tank bag and bike jacket! I thought there would be a hotel here but no such luck, but guy on gate says its only 75kms to Rio Dulce. I push on to the Caribbean coast and a large inlet/river spanned by a huge bridge ( which turns out to be the largest bridge in all of Central America).
Tuesday, 8 April 2008
Honduras Entry most expensive at US$55
The Aduna officer at the Honduras border took my passport, V5 and driving licence and I am told it will cost me US$ 40 for entrance for the bike and get the correct paper work. Another Aduna officer confirms this. Later this goes up to US$55 and a mountain of paperwork and receipts are produced. About 6 or 8 copies are various bits of paper are produced and some are photocopied and this all takes about one and half hours. I change US$ 40 for 720 local and I also get some local change from my US$60. I finally leave the border and gain entry by 1600 hrs but in the mean time have a row with the Aduna officer who how wants me to tip him even though he mislead me and the cost went up by US$15. My offer was too small and he left with my receipts but not my entrance document. I left feeling a bit mean but angry that it cost even more to gain entrance into Honduras than Nicaragua which I had thought expensive. I immediately fill the bike with fuel which cost 450 local and head for Danli on good roads but my front wheel has a wobble, I think its the road surface as can not find anything wrong. At 1830 hrs make it to Tegucigalpa ( capital I think) and find a hotel by 1900hrs. That's 12 hours on the bike. Its a huge city in a valley and I'm certainly lost now as drove all over the place to find this hotel.which was 320 local (US$18)
I go over the road to the local rough restaurant as am short of local currency and eat chicken in bread + beer of course and all for 80 local. The bike is locked behind some corrugated iron doors across the road from the hotel and I have no idea where about in town I am but expect I will find out tomorrow. The Lady running the restaurant wants to come with me on the bike to California. She chats me up and wants to know why I'm alone and did I have a wife. Yes I say and two children but there 22 and 20. Pity she says as she would come with me, we have a laugh and I go back to my hotel and wonder how am I going to find my way tomorrow.
I go over the road to the local rough restaurant as am short of local currency and eat chicken in bread + beer of course and all for 80 local. The bike is locked behind some corrugated iron doors across the road from the hotel and I have no idea where about in town I am but expect I will find out tomorrow. The Lady running the restaurant wants to come with me on the bike to California. She chats me up and wants to know why I'm alone and did I have a wife. Yes I say and two children but there 22 and 20. Pity she says as she would come with me, we have a laugh and I go back to my hotel and wonder how am I going to find my way tomorrow.
Police in Nicaragua stop and rob me of 600 Cordoras
Thursday 1st March
Leave hotel by 0705 hrs and head toward Managua and then plan to cut corner by going to Masaya and Tipitapa but in the end I miss the turning so carry on to the city of Managua which will be a little further but on a faster road. The road into Manaqua is along the side of a large lake with huge Volcano's in it. I arrive in Manaqua by 1130 hrs and soon find the road out to the airport and out of town. At 1230 hrs I am waiting at the front of a queue of traffic at red traffic lights, I pull away once they turn green and 100 metres up the road I am beckoned to pull over by two policemen. I am accused of changing lanes which I deny and am taken to a car on the side road to show my driving licence, passport and bike import papers. These are all in order but now there are 4 policemen and one policewoman who refuse to give me back my driving licence until I take them to my bank and give then 600 Cordoras. I tell them they have make a mistake how could I be changing lanes when I was at the front of all the traffic. They speak no English and me no Spanish and after about 30 minutes they radio for some more assistance, a police motor bike with two more police turn up and offer me a pair of handcuffs. The policeman holding my driving licence tells me I will have to take his word for it, I tell him it is not true and think to myself why did I give up my original driving licence ( this was the first time I had used my original driving licence on the whole trip so I was a kicking myself) I had two colour photocopies for events just like this. I go back to the bike which is blocking one lane of the three lanes out of town and collect my camera and wallet. Me against 7 lying policeman who seem to think I will take them to a bank does not seem too assuming. In the end I give then 600 Cordoras and tell them they are corrupt, I am angry and as I walk away I take a couple of photos of them all but they all turn their backs so I take another photo of their car number plate " Police one". The choice of having to be handcuffed or paying US$ 30 was not a hard decision. As I drove away I remembered I had forgotten to ask for a proper receipt which further annoyed me. Bloody crooked coppers spoiling my day in Nicaragua! how dare they! I thought the border was expensive but now that make Nicaragua even more expensive. I consider not stopping next time and certainly not using my real licence again. I am stopped again for a 4th time today but this time there is no hassle.
I pass a GB plated Land Rover and give it a quick beep and wave. Miles further on I stop for a coke and the Land Rover drives pasted and turns around for a chat. Mum, dad and son (10) have been travelling for about 18 months and have not been in the UK for about 12 years and have been in Africa all that time. We are both heading towards Esteli but I will carry on to the border as I think I need to make up some time. I arrive at the border at 1500 hrs after buying a Garode to drink and then chop down for a fuel funnel. I leave Nicaragua within 15 mins and move on to the Honduras border. Hear I am offered help from an Aduna official with a proper ID badge. The road to the border had been hilly but fast but difficult to take photos as no pull offs. At road junctions there were no signs to say where to go, who's right of way it was or how far any thing was.
Leave hotel by 0705 hrs and head toward Managua and then plan to cut corner by going to Masaya and Tipitapa but in the end I miss the turning so carry on to the city of Managua which will be a little further but on a faster road. The road into Manaqua is along the side of a large lake with huge Volcano's in it. I arrive in Manaqua by 1130 hrs and soon find the road out to the airport and out of town. At 1230 hrs I am waiting at the front of a queue of traffic at red traffic lights, I pull away once they turn green and 100 metres up the road I am beckoned to pull over by two policemen. I am accused of changing lanes which I deny and am taken to a car on the side road to show my driving licence, passport and bike import papers. These are all in order but now there are 4 policemen and one policewoman who refuse to give me back my driving licence until I take them to my bank and give then 600 Cordoras. I tell them they have make a mistake how could I be changing lanes when I was at the front of all the traffic. They speak no English and me no Spanish and after about 30 minutes they radio for some more assistance, a police motor bike with two more police turn up and offer me a pair of handcuffs. The policeman holding my driving licence tells me I will have to take his word for it, I tell him it is not true and think to myself why did I give up my original driving licence ( this was the first time I had used my original driving licence on the whole trip so I was a kicking myself) I had two colour photocopies for events just like this. I go back to the bike which is blocking one lane of the three lanes out of town and collect my camera and wallet. Me against 7 lying policeman who seem to think I will take them to a bank does not seem too assuming. In the end I give then 600 Cordoras and tell them they are corrupt, I am angry and as I walk away I take a couple of photos of them all but they all turn their backs so I take another photo of their car number plate " Police one". The choice of having to be handcuffed or paying US$ 30 was not a hard decision. As I drove away I remembered I had forgotten to ask for a proper receipt which further annoyed me. Bloody crooked coppers spoiling my day in Nicaragua! how dare they! I thought the border was expensive but now that make Nicaragua even more expensive. I consider not stopping next time and certainly not using my real licence again. I am stopped again for a 4th time today but this time there is no hassle.
I pass a GB plated Land Rover and give it a quick beep and wave. Miles further on I stop for a coke and the Land Rover drives pasted and turns around for a chat. Mum, dad and son (10) have been travelling for about 18 months and have not been in the UK for about 12 years and have been in Africa all that time. We are both heading towards Esteli but I will carry on to the border as I think I need to make up some time. I arrive at the border at 1500 hrs after buying a Garode to drink and then chop down for a fuel funnel. I leave Nicaragua within 15 mins and move on to the Honduras border. Hear I am offered help from an Aduna official with a proper ID badge. The road to the border had been hilly but fast but difficult to take photos as no pull offs. At road junctions there were no signs to say where to go, who's right of way it was or how far any thing was.
Another Puncture in Costa Rica
Wednesday 12th March
I have now been travelling on my own for 16 days and its not that bad at all. At first it was a bit of a shock to discover I was on my own without any notice or discussion but I quite like it now even though some times it would be nice to have some company. My mobile phone is flat again and I need some silver paper for the fuse as I can not get a replacement fuse the correct size here. Send and receive a few e-mails this morning and get a very good supportive e-mail from Bill which cheers me up and reminds me to enjoy the trip. I will enjoy myself. I get directions for NW and head for the airport which is hell for the first 30 mins but then once I arrive passed the airport the traffic clears and the goings is OK. Then soon the traffic is reduced to a crawl for 60 /80 kms its very slow going up and down and past road works. At each road works traffic lights I take the opportunity to get passed miles of traffic ( about 1 km each time) before traffic comes the other way. Its now very hot again so I can remove my jacket sleeve ( so glad I bought this BMW jacket as has 3 layers and plenty of vents and can also remove the sleeves completely still leaving the elbow armour on a net sleeve. Having got passed all the long traffic jams I need some food so stop for lunch (Pasta with shrimps in cream) at 1030 hrs and watch all the lorries goes passed again. I am now somewhere between Canas and south of Liberia about 120 kms from the border town of Penas Blancas which I want to pass though today. Mt right leg is sore but the dressing is OK and my stomach is also fine so fingers crossed. From up here in the mountains I can just see the sea which I think is Puntarenas and there is a large liner in port.
After lunch I discover I am 18kms south of Canas and I can see the cloud covering the mountains ahead again. Thee is still lots of traffic going my way and it is also very hot. I fill up with petrol and spend 2400 local. A little later (1500 hrs) I stop to take a photo and within 5 minutes have another rear wheel puncture. I stop under a bus shelter in the shade and next to a young lad sitting in his pick up truck. I can't believe it another puncture! and in the same place as before ma nail though the centre of the three last patches. The guy with the pick up helps me get the bike onto the centre stand and I remove all the luggage and put it into the bus stop. I find two holes in the inner tube and all too close to the last patches. Luckily I had bought a new HD rear inner tube in Bogota and also discover I have an extra hour as the clocks have gone back again. Again I have lots of trouble getting the bead broken on the rear tyre but am becoming a bit of an expert now doing this on my own. In the end taking in consideration my gained hour I only lose half an hour and may still make the border before it closes. Puncture is repaired by 1500 hrs Costa Rica time and now only 36kms to the border. I have been in Central America 3 days now and by 1400 hrs each day the wind gets up and is very gusty but not as strong as in Patagonia, but not constant so difficult to stay on my side of the road above 80 kph.
At the border the Costa Rica paper work is easy and I change 29000 for Nicaragua currency (about divide by 40) so got about 580 may even have been 480 who knows or is counting.
I head for the Nicaragua border and its hell here lots of people selling stuff, too many offices to have a clue which to go too and then 3 young lads say they will help me for free. ( nothings free I think). Its now 1600 hrs and I accept their offer and so starts a long drawn out procedure.
1st bike clearance document and US$ 12 then entrance fee for me US$7 then back to Aduna and get stamp and then back and forth to offices and see some people 3 times. Bike spray US$3. Police check of bike paper work will take a wait of over an hour unless I pay 180 local which means it will be signed without him even turning up to see the bike. Tip to three lads 100 local. All in all an expensive afternoon but I then pay another US$ 1 to get though the final border control and cross into Nicaragua within one hour ( Nicaragua side only) Costa Rica took 15 mins. Its now 1700 hrs so I head for the Rivas which is only 36 kms away and I think I will be there before 1800 hrs. Entrance into Nicaragua seems a bit of a rip off after all the other countries but I soon discover its not the most expensive country. Every worked as long as you are prepared to pay pay pay. I don't expect to in Nicaragua for more than 2 days. I do make it to Rivas at 1800 hrs and after trying three hotels I finally find one for 200 local (US$10) but nor quite sure of the exchange rate. I go in search of a bank but decide to abandon the idea as area looks a bit dodgy and its now dark so go back to hotel and eat what every one else has ( chicken, rice, tomato's, beans and chips) which cost 60 Cordoras. The fan in the room is noisy, the shower cold but other wise OK but a bit primitive but the bed is comfy even if the bottom sheet looks 2nd hand! I decide to wash my T shirt and pants in the shower but forget to remove my passport holder so my passport gets a good soaking. I also now have a load of wet US$'s. I am also nearly out of Cordoras ( have 40) and I think 500 may be about US$25.
I have now been travelling on my own for 16 days and its not that bad at all. At first it was a bit of a shock to discover I was on my own without any notice or discussion but I quite like it now even though some times it would be nice to have some company. My mobile phone is flat again and I need some silver paper for the fuse as I can not get a replacement fuse the correct size here. Send and receive a few e-mails this morning and get a very good supportive e-mail from Bill which cheers me up and reminds me to enjoy the trip. I will enjoy myself. I get directions for NW and head for the airport which is hell for the first 30 mins but then once I arrive passed the airport the traffic clears and the goings is OK. Then soon the traffic is reduced to a crawl for 60 /80 kms its very slow going up and down and past road works. At each road works traffic lights I take the opportunity to get passed miles of traffic ( about 1 km each time) before traffic comes the other way. Its now very hot again so I can remove my jacket sleeve ( so glad I bought this BMW jacket as has 3 layers and plenty of vents and can also remove the sleeves completely still leaving the elbow armour on a net sleeve. Having got passed all the long traffic jams I need some food so stop for lunch (Pasta with shrimps in cream) at 1030 hrs and watch all the lorries goes passed again. I am now somewhere between Canas and south of Liberia about 120 kms from the border town of Penas Blancas which I want to pass though today. Mt right leg is sore but the dressing is OK and my stomach is also fine so fingers crossed. From up here in the mountains I can just see the sea which I think is Puntarenas and there is a large liner in port.
After lunch I discover I am 18kms south of Canas and I can see the cloud covering the mountains ahead again. Thee is still lots of traffic going my way and it is also very hot. I fill up with petrol and spend 2400 local. A little later (1500 hrs) I stop to take a photo and within 5 minutes have another rear wheel puncture. I stop under a bus shelter in the shade and next to a young lad sitting in his pick up truck. I can't believe it another puncture! and in the same place as before ma nail though the centre of the three last patches. The guy with the pick up helps me get the bike onto the centre stand and I remove all the luggage and put it into the bus stop. I find two holes in the inner tube and all too close to the last patches. Luckily I had bought a new HD rear inner tube in Bogota and also discover I have an extra hour as the clocks have gone back again. Again I have lots of trouble getting the bead broken on the rear tyre but am becoming a bit of an expert now doing this on my own. In the end taking in consideration my gained hour I only lose half an hour and may still make the border before it closes. Puncture is repaired by 1500 hrs Costa Rica time and now only 36kms to the border. I have been in Central America 3 days now and by 1400 hrs each day the wind gets up and is very gusty but not as strong as in Patagonia, but not constant so difficult to stay on my side of the road above 80 kph.
At the border the Costa Rica paper work is easy and I change 29000 for Nicaragua currency (about divide by 40) so got about 580 may even have been 480 who knows or is counting.
I head for the Nicaragua border and its hell here lots of people selling stuff, too many offices to have a clue which to go too and then 3 young lads say they will help me for free. ( nothings free I think). Its now 1600 hrs and I accept their offer and so starts a long drawn out procedure.
1st bike clearance document and US$ 12 then entrance fee for me US$7 then back to Aduna and get stamp and then back and forth to offices and see some people 3 times. Bike spray US$3. Police check of bike paper work will take a wait of over an hour unless I pay 180 local which means it will be signed without him even turning up to see the bike. Tip to three lads 100 local. All in all an expensive afternoon but I then pay another US$ 1 to get though the final border control and cross into Nicaragua within one hour ( Nicaragua side only) Costa Rica took 15 mins. Its now 1700 hrs so I head for the Rivas which is only 36 kms away and I think I will be there before 1800 hrs. Entrance into Nicaragua seems a bit of a rip off after all the other countries but I soon discover its not the most expensive country. Every worked as long as you are prepared to pay pay pay. I don't expect to in Nicaragua for more than 2 days. I do make it to Rivas at 1800 hrs and after trying three hotels I finally find one for 200 local (US$10) but nor quite sure of the exchange rate. I go in search of a bank but decide to abandon the idea as area looks a bit dodgy and its now dark so go back to hotel and eat what every one else has ( chicken, rice, tomato's, beans and chips) which cost 60 Cordoras. The fan in the room is noisy, the shower cold but other wise OK but a bit primitive but the bed is comfy even if the bottom sheet looks 2nd hand! I decide to wash my T shirt and pants in the shower but forget to remove my passport holder so my passport gets a good soaking. I also now have a load of wet US$'s. I am also nearly out of Cordoras ( have 40) and I think 500 may be about US$25.
Across the Panama canal at 1400 hours on 10th March
The correct GIRAG office turns out to be 1000 metres around the airport perimeter fence. Once here I dump my rucksack, helmet, tank bag and jacket as its very hot humid and sunny. I collect one piece of paper and make my way to the quarantine Aduna (Customs) office which is another 2000 metres away. The Aduna stamp and sign this and I go to the next Aduna office another 1000 metres away then back to GIRAG for another stamp and so on for a few more visits to offices and then finally back to the 1st GIRAG office. lots of times I managed to hitch a lift with local airport staff driving around the fence. By now its nearly midday and extremely hot and humid. On one trip I met a guy on a Kawasaki 650 from Bolivia intending to go back to South America soon. At he final GIRAG office I get the bike which is already off the pallet and there are no storage charges to pay which was a nice surprise. I reconnect the battery, replace the mirrors and tie on my luggage and then drink as much water as I can. The nearest petrol station as about 1250 metres away and I make it here for fuel but they have no air for my soft tyres. At the last Aduna office they assured me that I did not need a separate document for my bike for Panama ( only the stamp for the bike in my passport) The next gas station has air so I manage to top up the tyres to 30 and 40 psi. I question again the fact that I have no bike temporary import papers and told not necessary. I finally leave the airport at 1330 hrs and head into to Panama city as the airport was 20 kms south of the city. I stop for lunch as Mac Donald's and ask the way north and get two different answers. In the end another customer says he will show me the correct way across the Panama canal and north. About 5 minutes later the driver of the car points right and I head off and cross the huge bridge over the canal at 1400 hrs ( sadly I can't stop for a photo as the road is dual carriageway and fast moving traffic). I stop a couple of times however in the shade as the bike does not feel right but can find nothing wrong. I am now on toll roads and each toll is US$ 50 cents for motorbikes. The roads are fast and flat up until Santiago and then get a little hilly for the last 100 kms into the city of David. The going is now a little slower and at 1730 hrs I am stopped by a Army and Aduna check point and am asked for my temporary bike import documents. Sure enough I have the incorrect documents and we agree that I can continue if I go to the Aduna office tomorrow morning at the airport in David. I of course agree. David is about one hour away or so I am told or about 80 kms. Earlier that afternoon (1530 hrs) I had driven passed a police motor bike who had half heartily signalled me to pull over. I felt there was enough confusion with the lorry behind me. I needed to get to David before it was dark so I was going like hell. Thre were lots of Police bikes on the road sides today but by 1730 hrs they appeared to have all gone home as I hadn't seen one for ages but then at 1830 hrs I was stopped for speeding doing 92kph in a 60 kms zone. I was shown the radar gun and told to give up my passport driving licence and US$50. I would be awarded 5 points on my licence. We settled for US$ 30 cash and no points on my licence or any paperwork.
The police officer said it would now take me 30 minutes to get to David. I finally arrive at my hotel in David at 2000 hrs. Every one I have asked for distances or travel times have always been miles out. I was told Panama was 1000 miles long but it was in fact 375 kms then I was told San Jose was 500 kms from the border in fact within 5 mins I saw a sign saying it was 300kms. My hotel tonight is US$ 32 and I finally get to eat by 2045 hrs. My ankles are sore and itchy but not swollen. It has been a long hot, humid day and I have had these bike boots on since 0445 hrs
11th March
Full cooked breakfast this morning and then change my speedo cable as speedo has not worked since 700 kms north of Lima which has meant I need to refuel every 3 hrs to be safe and not run out of fuel. The new cable makes no difference so I expect the small cog at the wheel is broken, but I will not look now as need to push on. I should be flying home on the 15th March from San Diego but I lost one week in BA due to UK customs delaying the bikes departure from Heathrow and then another 2 and half weeks in Peru ( Cusco and Lima) due to DHL delays and the Customs agent incompetence trying to get the release of a parcel with a new Honda Regulator/rectifier. In the end I headed north without my parcel as DHL and the Customs agent were unable to deliver the goods in time and I could not afford any more delays even though I had paid the required duty and fees.
I find the Aduna office after driving around for over an hour and then wait a further hour for my bike import document. I leave the Aduna by 1030 hrs and make it to the Costa Rica border by 1200 hrs ( 50 Kms). I drive to the front of the car/lorry queue and there a young guy offers to help me do both border formalities for US$20. I accept as don't want any more hassle today even though I know it's a bit much. I get my exit stamp without any problems then move on to have the bike fumigated and pay US$2.65 the mist on the bike is so little it doesn't even get wet. I ask him to do it again so I can take a photo. The two border controls are 200 metres apart.
1st I have to buy Costa Rica bike insurance for US$17 and then show my permit and fumigation certificates and photocopies of my driving licence, passport, V5 to get my temporary bike import document. The exit /entry procedure at both points takes a total of 90 minutes. I have only been in Panama for one day. I then manage to buy 12 Panama flag stickers for US$1 ( bargain).
I pay my helper and think it was worth the expense as all borders are slightly different, I get 50,000 from the 2 local ATM but have no idea of the exchange rate and leave the border at 1400 hrs. It is again very hot and sweaty and I'm just dripping in sweat.
The roads are good and fast until Palmar Norte and then head inland and up into the mountains over rivers but not too steep so still good going and not difficult to get pasted lorries. Go though a town called Buenos Aires and then the mountain roads very very cold with thick cloud cover. I have to stop to put on a thick thermal jacket and am still cold and now there is lots of slow moving traffic that I can not get passed as it is impossible to see past one lorry length.
I proceed with the flow to Cartago which is a long way and at Cartago I fill up with super fuel as have been running on reserve for about 60 kms. I decide to head for San Jose and find a hotel there. The 1st one is full so I go another 9 blocks and finally find a very nice but very expensive hotel (US$52). I just can't be bothered to go any further tonight, I have been rushing as I am very aware now late I am and now many more miles I still have to cover. 5 years ago my trip was always going to be 4 months, but just before I left I agreed rather naively to reduce it to 3 months. In hind sight even 4 months was too short for such a distance. That night I discover I have a large wound on my right inside ankle. I was wondering why it was so sore. It is like a burn about 40mm in diameter. I dress the wound and go for a Japanese meal which is very good and a nice change.
The police officer said it would now take me 30 minutes to get to David. I finally arrive at my hotel in David at 2000 hrs. Every one I have asked for distances or travel times have always been miles out. I was told Panama was 1000 miles long but it was in fact 375 kms then I was told San Jose was 500 kms from the border in fact within 5 mins I saw a sign saying it was 300kms. My hotel tonight is US$ 32 and I finally get to eat by 2045 hrs. My ankles are sore and itchy but not swollen. It has been a long hot, humid day and I have had these bike boots on since 0445 hrs
11th March
Full cooked breakfast this morning and then change my speedo cable as speedo has not worked since 700 kms north of Lima which has meant I need to refuel every 3 hrs to be safe and not run out of fuel. The new cable makes no difference so I expect the small cog at the wheel is broken, but I will not look now as need to push on. I should be flying home on the 15th March from San Diego but I lost one week in BA due to UK customs delaying the bikes departure from Heathrow and then another 2 and half weeks in Peru ( Cusco and Lima) due to DHL delays and the Customs agent incompetence trying to get the release of a parcel with a new Honda Regulator/rectifier. In the end I headed north without my parcel as DHL and the Customs agent were unable to deliver the goods in time and I could not afford any more delays even though I had paid the required duty and fees.
I find the Aduna office after driving around for over an hour and then wait a further hour for my bike import document. I leave the Aduna by 1030 hrs and make it to the Costa Rica border by 1200 hrs ( 50 Kms). I drive to the front of the car/lorry queue and there a young guy offers to help me do both border formalities for US$20. I accept as don't want any more hassle today even though I know it's a bit much. I get my exit stamp without any problems then move on to have the bike fumigated and pay US$2.65 the mist on the bike is so little it doesn't even get wet. I ask him to do it again so I can take a photo. The two border controls are 200 metres apart.
1st I have to buy Costa Rica bike insurance for US$17 and then show my permit and fumigation certificates and photocopies of my driving licence, passport, V5 to get my temporary bike import document. The exit /entry procedure at both points takes a total of 90 minutes. I have only been in Panama for one day. I then manage to buy 12 Panama flag stickers for US$1 ( bargain).
I pay my helper and think it was worth the expense as all borders are slightly different, I get 50,000 from the 2 local ATM but have no idea of the exchange rate and leave the border at 1400 hrs. It is again very hot and sweaty and I'm just dripping in sweat.
The roads are good and fast until Palmar Norte and then head inland and up into the mountains over rivers but not too steep so still good going and not difficult to get pasted lorries. Go though a town called Buenos Aires and then the mountain roads very very cold with thick cloud cover. I have to stop to put on a thick thermal jacket and am still cold and now there is lots of slow moving traffic that I can not get passed as it is impossible to see past one lorry length.
I proceed with the flow to Cartago which is a long way and at Cartago I fill up with super fuel as have been running on reserve for about 60 kms. I decide to head for San Jose and find a hotel there. The 1st one is full so I go another 9 blocks and finally find a very nice but very expensive hotel (US$52). I just can't be bothered to go any further tonight, I have been rushing as I am very aware now late I am and now many more miles I still have to cover. 5 years ago my trip was always going to be 4 months, but just before I left I agreed rather naively to reduce it to 3 months. In hind sight even 4 months was too short for such a distance. That night I discover I have a large wound on my right inside ankle. I was wondering why it was so sore. It is like a burn about 40mm in diameter. I dress the wound and go for a Japanese meal which is very good and a nice change.
Columbia Honda bike garage and make it to CA
There are lots of stones and litter being thrown at the police and in return we receive tear gas which does sting the eyes and I remember made worse if you rub the eyes ( TA days) Apparently last week there was another demonstration that was anti FAC and this demo was anti police. Both Venezuela and Ecuador have closed there borders as Colombian troops have killed the 2nd in charge of the FAC and it all happened 18kms inside the Ecuador border which upset a few people. Anyway I mange to get back to the hostel without getting too involved and watch a copy DVD which packs up half way though so we never get to know what happened!
James has his bike ( Triumph Tiger) back from a good service ( his 1st in 18 months) + a new rewound alternator and all for US$500. He had found a very good bike shop in Bogota and so I will visit later for some spare parts and tools that I need or Dave had taken with him.
7th March
I make a trip to the local Honda bike garage and find them very knowledgeable and helpful. I buy a spare rear HD inner tube and a spare regulator/rectifier (US$225) from a 650 Suzuki which I am told will work well on the Africa Twin as it has been done before by them.
I also mange to buy a set of Alan keys and some terminal connectors.
I then visit the American Airlines office in the town centre and manage to change my flights home from San Diego so I will now fly home on the 10th April but am then reminded that my baggage allowance is 2 cases totally 23kgs! Hand luggage is 8kgs.
I also buy an airline ticket (US$340) for me to leave Bogota on Monday morning as bike left here on Thursday afternoon and should be collect Saturday if I am not to be charged storage fees in Panama.
I decide to walk across town and back to the hostel, on the way I find a weight machine and discover I am now 88 kgs that's 10 kgs less than when the trip started if the machine is correct.
I also discover while I am with AA that Dave will fly home tomorrow from Miami ( he had not replied to my e-mails).
At 1600 hrs it starts to rain so I visit the national museum for 3000 pesos and then walk aback to the hostel. It is now tipping down and also thunder and lighting. It is cold tonight.
8th March
James and I walk into town to watch the start of the fiesta parade, I also get loads of photocopies of documents I am likely to need to Central America.
We reach the view point we had chosen ( main theatre entrance) and it starts to rain which becomes so heavy that the road turns into a river and we have to wait inside the theatre entrance with about 100 others until it stops raining. The Parade is cancelled so we go for soup and stew and later walk to the Plaza de Boliviar for a free concert that night. Good atmosphere in the Plaza and the group is very popular with the locals but there is only so much Spanish/Colombian music you can put up with before its time to go to bed!
Sunday 9th March
I decide to visit the top of the local mountain this morning and go up via the Funiglar railway. I get a one way ticket for 4000 peso and take some photo's of the city and then walk back down the path where there are huge crowds coming up and some are crawling to repent their sins as there is a church/shrine at the top. Most of the shops in town are closed, I settle my hostel bill as I will be leaving very early tomorrow and then pack all my remaining belongings.
the rucksack inc the helmet is 17kgs
the tank bag + contents is 4 kgs
the bike inc panniers but no fuel is 288 kgs
my weight is between 98 and 88 kgs
the bike clothing/boots inc camel pack is 12 kgs
fuel inc extra 32 kgs
Total 451 kgs
Monday 10th March
up at 0445 hrs and catch Taxi to airport 0510hrs security at airport OK and I go though with full bike clothing and bike boots - no problem (even though I have at least one litre of water in my camel pack). Michael advertised my bike for sale on the web a few days ago and I have already had three enquiries and need to send them pictures.
At Copx airlines I am asked if I could catch the later flight at 0930 hrs and of course I say no ( the 0730 hrs flight is over subscribed) The flight is good with plenty of leg room and a good breakfast and we land at Tocumen- Panama City at 0930 hrs. I find the ATM and draw US$ as that's the local currency ( same as Ecuador). I get a taxi to the GIRAG office which turns out to be miles away at the old airport and once the taxi has left I discover it is also the wrong GRIAG office.
James has his bike ( Triumph Tiger) back from a good service ( his 1st in 18 months) + a new rewound alternator and all for US$500. He had found a very good bike shop in Bogota and so I will visit later for some spare parts and tools that I need or Dave had taken with him.
7th March
I make a trip to the local Honda bike garage and find them very knowledgeable and helpful. I buy a spare rear HD inner tube and a spare regulator/rectifier (US$225) from a 650 Suzuki which I am told will work well on the Africa Twin as it has been done before by them.
I also mange to buy a set of Alan keys and some terminal connectors.
I then visit the American Airlines office in the town centre and manage to change my flights home from San Diego so I will now fly home on the 10th April but am then reminded that my baggage allowance is 2 cases totally 23kgs! Hand luggage is 8kgs.
I also buy an airline ticket (US$340) for me to leave Bogota on Monday morning as bike left here on Thursday afternoon and should be collect Saturday if I am not to be charged storage fees in Panama.
I decide to walk across town and back to the hostel, on the way I find a weight machine and discover I am now 88 kgs that's 10 kgs less than when the trip started if the machine is correct.
I also discover while I am with AA that Dave will fly home tomorrow from Miami ( he had not replied to my e-mails).
At 1600 hrs it starts to rain so I visit the national museum for 3000 pesos and then walk aback to the hostel. It is now tipping down and also thunder and lighting. It is cold tonight.
8th March
James and I walk into town to watch the start of the fiesta parade, I also get loads of photocopies of documents I am likely to need to Central America.
We reach the view point we had chosen ( main theatre entrance) and it starts to rain which becomes so heavy that the road turns into a river and we have to wait inside the theatre entrance with about 100 others until it stops raining. The Parade is cancelled so we go for soup and stew and later walk to the Plaza de Boliviar for a free concert that night. Good atmosphere in the Plaza and the group is very popular with the locals but there is only so much Spanish/Colombian music you can put up with before its time to go to bed!
Sunday 9th March
I decide to visit the top of the local mountain this morning and go up via the Funiglar railway. I get a one way ticket for 4000 peso and take some photo's of the city and then walk back down the path where there are huge crowds coming up and some are crawling to repent their sins as there is a church/shrine at the top. Most of the shops in town are closed, I settle my hostel bill as I will be leaving very early tomorrow and then pack all my remaining belongings.
the rucksack inc the helmet is 17kgs
the tank bag + contents is 4 kgs
the bike inc panniers but no fuel is 288 kgs
my weight is between 98 and 88 kgs
the bike clothing/boots inc camel pack is 12 kgs
fuel inc extra 32 kgs
Total 451 kgs
Monday 10th March
up at 0445 hrs and catch Taxi to airport 0510hrs security at airport OK and I go though with full bike clothing and bike boots - no problem (even though I have at least one litre of water in my camel pack). Michael advertised my bike for sale on the web a few days ago and I have already had three enquiries and need to send them pictures.
At Copx airlines I am asked if I could catch the later flight at 0930 hrs and of course I say no ( the 0730 hrs flight is over subscribed) The flight is good with plenty of leg room and a good breakfast and we land at Tocumen- Panama City at 0930 hrs. I find the ATM and draw US$ as that's the local currency ( same as Ecuador). I get a taxi to the GIRAG office which turns out to be miles away at the old airport and once the taxi has left I discover it is also the wrong GRIAG office.
Columbia
Supper tonight is deep fat fried fish and chips, salad and rice + 2 cokes all for 20,000. I sit eating and watch the traffic go pasts (just like the local) and many pick up trucks and lorries stop at the watering hole to throw water at their radiators and brakes. The main street is lined with small shops and restaurants and once it gets dark all looks very nice as you can no longer see all the rubbish and ugly bits. It is a very noisy night with traffic going past all night and the bridge has a 20 kph limit and is right next to the hotel. The road sides are still strimmed by an army of workers on Chinese 125cc motorbikes and strimmer even though we are miles from any large town. There are also small 125cc motor bikes pulling trailers and huge lorries also pulling 5 or 6 trailers like road trains loaded with what looks like sugar beat. I'm sure it was a good idea to stay here the night rather than drive though the night to Bogota which is about another 80 kms.
Columbia is the first country I stay in where you pay for the hotel on booking in and in fact this becomes the norm now until the end of the trip. Toll roads are free to motorbikes in Columbia.
5th March
Set off by 0740 hrs and still don't know the towns name but I am east of Flandes. It is very hot and humid and the roads are good though small towns and we even get some dual carriageway and choice of routes though or around some towns.
Once I arrive in the centre of Bogota I say goodbye to me 125 cc friend and he goes to work, I am then joined by about 10 army solders and police in no 1 uniforms all wanting to know about the trip and asking me where I am going. I am in Plaza del la Bolivar and next to the court house. Some one in the large group speaks English so we exchange lots of info and in the end they radio for a police motorbike and tell him to show me the way to my hostel (Platypus). The police guy speaks no English and rides a Yamaha XT600 and takes me across town under blue flashing lights and in and out of all the traffic to Hotel Bogota, I then tell him this is incorrect and so we go back passed where we started and after over an hour and a half we finally find the tiny Hostel Platypus in the old town. My Police escorts looks relieved and please to get rid of me. I thanked my escort and went in search of James who I had met in Cusco and was travelling at least a week ahead of me. James was having breakfast in a little street cafe and it was now 1130 hrs.
I receive a good welcome and also have a healthy breakfast of muesli, yogurt, fruit and honey!
James and I end up sharing a room in the hostel for 20,000 per night. Clean place but very old and run down but with great atmosphere and also 3 computers with good fast Internet access. I end up spending 11 hours on the Internet over the next week. Today I have my appetite back and have a good lunch and then walk around the streets. I think this is the nicest city I have stayed in in all of South America ( I don't like cities at the best of times). There is lots going on and lots of small shops, bars and cafes. James has done lots of home work on how to get to Panama with the bikes and there are two options. Fly from Bogota to Panama for US$800 (bike only) or drive to Cartiagena ( 4 days away) and get a yacht to take you and the bike to Colon ( min another 5 days) but about US$350 in total. Only a month ago the bike flight was less than US$500 but there seems to have been a major shake up in the system. I opt for the flight and then receive an e-mail back from GIRAG Air Cargo telling me to be at there office at 0800 hrs tomorrow. That evening I repack the panniers with all the heavy items and sharps. I will use the tank bag as my carry on and put my ruck sack on as plane luggage.
6th March
Leave hostel 0740 hrs after giving beggar a few peso's for looking after my bike and say bye to James in case I don't come back. I have arranged to follow a taxi to the airport so I don't get lost. arrive at airport 0800 hrs and met Ana from GIRAG. I have to pay US$800 in local cash ( VISA not accepted). I also have to photocopy loads of documents and fill in many forms and all 3 times. Two pallets are laid up a flight of 7 steps and I drive the bike up into the reception and right into the warehouse. The bike and panniers weight in at 288 kgs. I then empty the fuel, disconnect the battery, reduce the tyre pressures and then have to go to the 1st customs office for more papers, then the police office then back to GIRAG and pay 1,478,400.00 Colombian.
I head off to the main airport ATM and after much trouble manage to draw on on debt and visa cards enough local currency ( one and half million) which is a huge wad. Another police form has to be filled in and photocopied and then another visit to another office about 500 metres away. Back to fill in another 3 forms and then I have to wait for a police bike inspection. I go for lunch as am told it will be a while. I then have to empty all the pannier contents out on the warehouse floor for the police and dog to inspect. All liquids are checked and then I am allowed to repack. Yet more forms are filled in and photocopied and after paying my one and half million Pesos, I have to wait for 1600 Pesos change after what seems an age I decide to leave without it as it is now 1330 hrs. I now return to the Platypus hostel with my helmet, rucksack and bike clothing + tank bag by taxi. That afternoon I decide to walk down into the newer part of town and soon hear some explosions and soon find myself in the middle of a demonstration. The riot police are dressed like Robocop in black alkathene articulated jointed suits and large shields and helmets with armoured cars with water and tear gas cannon. Shops are closing up and pulling down steel shutters and all the people are moving fast my way so I decide to turn around and go with the crowd. I seem to be the wrong side of the street and then find myself next to people in suits and also rioters throwing petrol bombs.
Columbia is the first country I stay in where you pay for the hotel on booking in and in fact this becomes the norm now until the end of the trip. Toll roads are free to motorbikes in Columbia.
5th March
Set off by 0740 hrs and still don't know the towns name but I am east of Flandes. It is very hot and humid and the roads are good though small towns and we even get some dual carriageway and choice of routes though or around some towns.
Once I arrive in the centre of Bogota I say goodbye to me 125 cc friend and he goes to work, I am then joined by about 10 army solders and police in no 1 uniforms all wanting to know about the trip and asking me where I am going. I am in Plaza del la Bolivar and next to the court house. Some one in the large group speaks English so we exchange lots of info and in the end they radio for a police motorbike and tell him to show me the way to my hostel (Platypus). The police guy speaks no English and rides a Yamaha XT600 and takes me across town under blue flashing lights and in and out of all the traffic to Hotel Bogota, I then tell him this is incorrect and so we go back passed where we started and after over an hour and a half we finally find the tiny Hostel Platypus in the old town. My Police escorts looks relieved and please to get rid of me. I thanked my escort and went in search of James who I had met in Cusco and was travelling at least a week ahead of me. James was having breakfast in a little street cafe and it was now 1130 hrs.
I receive a good welcome and also have a healthy breakfast of muesli, yogurt, fruit and honey!
James and I end up sharing a room in the hostel for 20,000 per night. Clean place but very old and run down but with great atmosphere and also 3 computers with good fast Internet access. I end up spending 11 hours on the Internet over the next week. Today I have my appetite back and have a good lunch and then walk around the streets. I think this is the nicest city I have stayed in in all of South America ( I don't like cities at the best of times). There is lots going on and lots of small shops, bars and cafes. James has done lots of home work on how to get to Panama with the bikes and there are two options. Fly from Bogota to Panama for US$800 (bike only) or drive to Cartiagena ( 4 days away) and get a yacht to take you and the bike to Colon ( min another 5 days) but about US$350 in total. Only a month ago the bike flight was less than US$500 but there seems to have been a major shake up in the system. I opt for the flight and then receive an e-mail back from GIRAG Air Cargo telling me to be at there office at 0800 hrs tomorrow. That evening I repack the panniers with all the heavy items and sharps. I will use the tank bag as my carry on and put my ruck sack on as plane luggage.
6th March
Leave hostel 0740 hrs after giving beggar a few peso's for looking after my bike and say bye to James in case I don't come back. I have arranged to follow a taxi to the airport so I don't get lost. arrive at airport 0800 hrs and met Ana from GIRAG. I have to pay US$800 in local cash ( VISA not accepted). I also have to photocopy loads of documents and fill in many forms and all 3 times. Two pallets are laid up a flight of 7 steps and I drive the bike up into the reception and right into the warehouse. The bike and panniers weight in at 288 kgs. I then empty the fuel, disconnect the battery, reduce the tyre pressures and then have to go to the 1st customs office for more papers, then the police office then back to GIRAG and pay 1,478,400.00 Colombian.
I head off to the main airport ATM and after much trouble manage to draw on on debt and visa cards enough local currency ( one and half million) which is a huge wad. Another police form has to be filled in and photocopied and then another visit to another office about 500 metres away. Back to fill in another 3 forms and then I have to wait for a police bike inspection. I go for lunch as am told it will be a while. I then have to empty all the pannier contents out on the warehouse floor for the police and dog to inspect. All liquids are checked and then I am allowed to repack. Yet more forms are filled in and photocopied and after paying my one and half million Pesos, I have to wait for 1600 Pesos change after what seems an age I decide to leave without it as it is now 1330 hrs. I now return to the Platypus hostel with my helmet, rucksack and bike clothing + tank bag by taxi. That afternoon I decide to walk down into the newer part of town and soon hear some explosions and soon find myself in the middle of a demonstration. The riot police are dressed like Robocop in black alkathene articulated jointed suits and large shields and helmets with armoured cars with water and tear gas cannon. Shops are closing up and pulling down steel shutters and all the people are moving fast my way so I decide to turn around and go with the crowd. I seem to be the wrong side of the street and then find myself next to people in suits and also rioters throwing petrol bombs.
Sunday, 9 March 2008
Another Punture in Columbia this time
I drive for miles along streets with mad drivers coming at me from all directions with 3 lanes of traffic and every one keeps changing lane. I am heading for El Centro and it is no good leaving a cars length in front of me as its imediately filled by another wally ( normally a yellow taxi). I find an ATM but it will not accept my card, I drive on and at a set of lights a 125cc bike rider asks me where I am from in English. England I say and ask is this correct way for El Centro Yes he say and at next lights he says follow him as he works in centre at the bank.
I follow him and a Taxi for miles and the road is full of concrete manholes, then suddenly the taxi in front of me drives over a manhole and I nearly go into a manhole with no cover. Of course the taxi wheels go each side but I miss the hole with a few mm to spare. Apparently the cast iron is worth steeling for scrap which is why most are concrete now. I find another ATM and draw 100,000 Pesos. I discover in the end that the correct excahnge rate is about 1950 Pesos to 1 US$. I find a hotel and book in and pay 90,000 pesos. The local resturant has very poor service but I don´t want to walk too far in this neighbourhood. All the small shops here and in Ecuador have steel cages and you have to ask for what you want and have the items passed out like a prison.
The roads are clean and are swept regulaly and the grass is strimmed even for miles outside towns. In fact there is lots of grass and nothing eating it unlike Peru and Bolivia where it is mostly mud and grass is carried into town to feed the animals. In Ecuador and Columbia there appears to be a school in every small town I drive though along with speed restrictions.
That night the AC and fan are so noisy I decide to go without and sweat it out.
4th March
I can not find an internet cafe and then I am allowed to use the hotels only reception computer again so check e mail and send a few quick replies. I leave the hotel by 0850 hrs after getting directions and get out of town with no problems. I will head for Yumbo, Buga, Tulua, Armenia and then Bogota. Roads are good and straight across flat arable land growing maize, rice, pineapples, bannanas etc. When I reach Armenia the roads climb again very steeply up tight switch backs to Ibague it very slow again with lots of lorries going both ways but it is easy to overtake due to their speed up hill. I never get above 3rd gear though but get good views into the valleys below until I reach near the top where the cloud cover reduces the viz to one lorry length. Overtaking now a little more difficult! Once I get to the top I see a sign showing Bogota is only 200 kms and I think I should be able to make that today. I will not have to go into Ibague. I stop to take some more photos and have to change memory cards. I carry one and one mile further down have another rear tyre punture. Oh my golly gosh I say what a punture up here 50 kms from anywhere! (some thing much worse was more to the point). I am on a tight corner going steeply down hill so walk the bike to the next corner and turn around and try again to put the bike on the side or centre stand. No chance so I lean it against the cliff face and remove all the luggage. Then a 40 ton lorry going up hill and towing a lad on a push bike stops and offers me some compressed air, I greatly accept and give the lad 2000 pesos. We block the road for most traffic while I blew up the tyre. I reload all luggage and carry on down hill as fast as possible but only make about 2 more kms before flat again. I can see a Peaje (toll booth) about 500 metres ahead so walk the bike to the barrier. I ask the security guard if I can use his hard standing at the side of the booths and it is all agreed with all the other staff. I unload all luggage again and remove the rear tyre. Problem number one is now do I break the tyre bead this time! After about an hour and the use of a huge concrete slab I manage to break both beads and get the inner tube out. I have three holes all right next to each other. If I was in Europe I would buy another but no choice here so manage to repair. The guard offers me large basin so I can check the tube again. Every one again is so helpful. While all this heavy work is taking place I have to stop and lie down a couple of times as I am dizzy from all the exercise. I give every one toffees which are well receive. The 10 army guys turn up on 5 Yamaha XT600´s and I am in their parking space. They ask me lots of questions about my trip and all are again so freindly , a couple of them help me replace the rear wheel but not before stopping a lorry so I can use their compressor to blow up the tyre as they had been watching me pump up the tyre for ages ( 1000 pumps) with my tiny hand pump. I take photos or some of the army guys and lube their chain on one of there Yamaha´s as they had shown some intrest in chain lube having not seen it before.
I finally get going again at 1530 hrs and think all that cost me 2 hrs. I continue down more switch backs and finally to Ibaque and decide to move on as now 1630 and I will have 2 hrs more light. The roads are now straight with speed limits of 60kph but every one seems to be doing 100kph. Then 6 of us (cars) are stopped by police with a radar gun on a tripod. I no Comprendi and am let go while others seem to be paying fines.
Its now 1700 hrs and at 1830 the road starts to climb again into a steep sided valley with high cliff either side. There is a large river to one side but it is getting dark and there is lots of traffic going both ways. Bogota is about 80 kms away. It is difficult to see the road with the oncoming lorry headlights in my face. At 1900 hrs I give up and put into a hotel right on the side of the road but looks clean, tidy and has a resturant next door. There is aslo an Army guard of 4 outside as we are next to a large bridge. Hotel 50,000 pesos with my own priviate army guard with automatic weapons of course. I park the bike in a compound but only with a chain across for security (1st time the Honda has not been locked away except for camp sites).
I follow him and a Taxi for miles and the road is full of concrete manholes, then suddenly the taxi in front of me drives over a manhole and I nearly go into a manhole with no cover. Of course the taxi wheels go each side but I miss the hole with a few mm to spare. Apparently the cast iron is worth steeling for scrap which is why most are concrete now. I find another ATM and draw 100,000 Pesos. I discover in the end that the correct excahnge rate is about 1950 Pesos to 1 US$. I find a hotel and book in and pay 90,000 pesos. The local resturant has very poor service but I don´t want to walk too far in this neighbourhood. All the small shops here and in Ecuador have steel cages and you have to ask for what you want and have the items passed out like a prison.
The roads are clean and are swept regulaly and the grass is strimmed even for miles outside towns. In fact there is lots of grass and nothing eating it unlike Peru and Bolivia where it is mostly mud and grass is carried into town to feed the animals. In Ecuador and Columbia there appears to be a school in every small town I drive though along with speed restrictions.
That night the AC and fan are so noisy I decide to go without and sweat it out.
4th March
I can not find an internet cafe and then I am allowed to use the hotels only reception computer again so check e mail and send a few quick replies. I leave the hotel by 0850 hrs after getting directions and get out of town with no problems. I will head for Yumbo, Buga, Tulua, Armenia and then Bogota. Roads are good and straight across flat arable land growing maize, rice, pineapples, bannanas etc. When I reach Armenia the roads climb again very steeply up tight switch backs to Ibague it very slow again with lots of lorries going both ways but it is easy to overtake due to their speed up hill. I never get above 3rd gear though but get good views into the valleys below until I reach near the top where the cloud cover reduces the viz to one lorry length. Overtaking now a little more difficult! Once I get to the top I see a sign showing Bogota is only 200 kms and I think I should be able to make that today. I will not have to go into Ibague. I stop to take some more photos and have to change memory cards. I carry one and one mile further down have another rear tyre punture. Oh my golly gosh I say what a punture up here 50 kms from anywhere! (some thing much worse was more to the point). I am on a tight corner going steeply down hill so walk the bike to the next corner and turn around and try again to put the bike on the side or centre stand. No chance so I lean it against the cliff face and remove all the luggage. Then a 40 ton lorry going up hill and towing a lad on a push bike stops and offers me some compressed air, I greatly accept and give the lad 2000 pesos. We block the road for most traffic while I blew up the tyre. I reload all luggage and carry on down hill as fast as possible but only make about 2 more kms before flat again. I can see a Peaje (toll booth) about 500 metres ahead so walk the bike to the barrier. I ask the security guard if I can use his hard standing at the side of the booths and it is all agreed with all the other staff. I unload all luggage again and remove the rear tyre. Problem number one is now do I break the tyre bead this time! After about an hour and the use of a huge concrete slab I manage to break both beads and get the inner tube out. I have three holes all right next to each other. If I was in Europe I would buy another but no choice here so manage to repair. The guard offers me large basin so I can check the tube again. Every one again is so helpful. While all this heavy work is taking place I have to stop and lie down a couple of times as I am dizzy from all the exercise. I give every one toffees which are well receive. The 10 army guys turn up on 5 Yamaha XT600´s and I am in their parking space. They ask me lots of questions about my trip and all are again so freindly , a couple of them help me replace the rear wheel but not before stopping a lorry so I can use their compressor to blow up the tyre as they had been watching me pump up the tyre for ages ( 1000 pumps) with my tiny hand pump. I take photos or some of the army guys and lube their chain on one of there Yamaha´s as they had shown some intrest in chain lube having not seen it before.
I finally get going again at 1530 hrs and think all that cost me 2 hrs. I continue down more switch backs and finally to Ibaque and decide to move on as now 1630 and I will have 2 hrs more light. The roads are now straight with speed limits of 60kph but every one seems to be doing 100kph. Then 6 of us (cars) are stopped by police with a radar gun on a tripod. I no Comprendi and am let go while others seem to be paying fines.
Its now 1700 hrs and at 1830 the road starts to climb again into a steep sided valley with high cliff either side. There is a large river to one side but it is getting dark and there is lots of traffic going both ways. Bogota is about 80 kms away. It is difficult to see the road with the oncoming lorry headlights in my face. At 1900 hrs I give up and put into a hotel right on the side of the road but looks clean, tidy and has a resturant next door. There is aslo an Army guard of 4 outside as we are next to a large bridge. Hotel 50,000 pesos with my own priviate army guard with automatic weapons of course. I park the bike in a compound but only with a chain across for security (1st time the Honda has not been locked away except for camp sites).
More of Columbia - Popayan and Cali
3rd March
Plan today to go to Popayan and then Cali. More twisty roads into the mountains rising high but little traffic. Lots of Army presence on the roads, at major road junctions and bridges. I was stopped by one group of about 10 soldiers who were all intrested in the bike, size , speed and where I had come from etc. Still only drinking water and Coke for energy and at one stop finally find someone to give my red rugby shirt too ( dirty lad who needs a new shirt even if a little big)
All the mountains are very steep and very green. By the side of the road locals are selling pineapples and what looks like massive green beans. hey are also drying some white powder on the road sides and on black plastic and it smells very strong but I can´t make out what it is. People are also selling cheese blocks and some green blocks of something else. Roads all steep up and down and going is very slow to Popayan. It seems ages to do 220 kms but I finally arrive in Popayan at 130 hrs.
I don´t go down into town and have another Coke before moving on, road now faster and only 140 kms to Cali, total today will be about 400 kms. more straights and faster so arrive in Cali by 1600 hrs. Huge city but still 4 times smaller than Bogota
Plan today to go to Popayan and then Cali. More twisty roads into the mountains rising high but little traffic. Lots of Army presence on the roads, at major road junctions and bridges. I was stopped by one group of about 10 soldiers who were all intrested in the bike, size , speed and where I had come from etc. Still only drinking water and Coke for energy and at one stop finally find someone to give my red rugby shirt too ( dirty lad who needs a new shirt even if a little big)
All the mountains are very steep and very green. By the side of the road locals are selling pineapples and what looks like massive green beans. hey are also drying some white powder on the road sides and on black plastic and it smells very strong but I can´t make out what it is. People are also selling cheese blocks and some green blocks of something else. Roads all steep up and down and going is very slow to Popayan. It seems ages to do 220 kms but I finally arrive in Popayan at 130 hrs.
I don´t go down into town and have another Coke before moving on, road now faster and only 140 kms to Cali, total today will be about 400 kms. more straights and faster so arrive in Cali by 1600 hrs. Huge city but still 4 times smaller than Bogota
Columbia here we come
At Riobamba the road improves and becomes a toll road and motorbikes have to pay US$ 50 cents. The altitute is still high here so not too warm but good dual carraigeway so progress is fast all the way to Quito. I pass the sign to Cotpax national park but its raining hard and the volcanco was covered in clouds. Approaching Quito I have two choices 1. the town centre or 2. Pan American north. I can´t face another large dirty city so continue along the dual carraigeway.
At 1700 hrs I see a small hotel with cafe next door on the opposite side of the road. I drop a "u" and book in and pay US$10 ( in Columbia you pay for your room at time of booking). The road is very noisy but I´m cold and its going to be dark soon. My bed is planks on two concrete block walls but is quite comfortable.
2nd March (Sunday)
I have now been ill for 4 or 5 weeks and food goes straight though me so I decide to start a course of Erythromyein. Since Dave left I have managed fine on one meal a day and Coke the rest of the time. I now also have stomach cramps. Still the good news is that I am losing weight and on the 8th March weight was 88kgs ( if the scales are to be beleived) thats 10 kgs down from the start of the trip. Supper tonight is US$2.50 but the noise here did´nt stop untill 0200 hrs.
I head north for the Ecuador monument and its a very overcast cool day, I miss any sign for the monument but have a nice drive though lush green mountains with very good fast toll roads. Bikes in Ecuador and Boliva pay tolls but in Columbia and Peru its free.
In Ecuador once you get north of Riobamba the roads are good. Its nice to get away from the cities and I arrive at the border at 1400 hrs. I get my passport exit stamp but the Aduna office(Customs) is closed for Sunday so technically no vechicles can enter or leave Ecuador.
I ask a young lad on a 125 cc Suzuki motor bike and he helps me though the procedure. I give my temporary import bike document to an Aduna officer in the street and move up the hill to the Columbia border. I get my passport entry stamp and theres no queue at all. I then go to the Aduna officer where a very nice lady ( with purple hair pieces) speaks english and she helps me with all the forms. I have to get documents photocopied so the lad takes me back to Ecuador on his 125 and we return to gain my temporary bike import document. I change some money with the street money changer as US$ not accepted in Columbia. I change my Peru currency and also change US$100 and get 1880 pesos per US$1. I have no idea at this stage wether this is good or not but have little choice at the border on a Sunday. I pay my new friend US$4 for his help.
Columbia here we come, entry has been no problem, in fact it was a pleasant experiance with a pretty girl. The lady also took a rubbing of my bike chasis number which I have never had done before. ( bit like brass rubbings in churches). I move though rolling hills/ mountains and steep valleys, very good roads and the houses have tiled roofs like the ones in Ecuador. The houses in Ecuador and Columbia are better built that Peru. In Ecuador and Columbia it is ilegal to import 2nd hand cars, so generally three cars on the road are better than Peru, Bolivia and Argentina.
Its a nice hot sunny day and I stop and take lots of photos of valleys but its difficult to stop as the road has deep gullies ( for rain) at the side and no hard shoulder.
On the way down one hill there is a huge traffic jam, a vechile has gone over, an ambulance takes patients away and a Toyota pick up loads the bodies. The traffic jam is caused by all the people parking and watching the rescue. There are about 20 cars abanonded on the side of the road and its these that are the real problem.
That evening I arrive at Pasto after a good 1st day in Columbia and find a hotel for 30,000 Pesos. I did stop in the main Plaza and within 5 mins have a crowd of about 20 people asking where am I from and what I am doing. Every one is so freindly and try to help. The crowd is a little big so I decide its time to move on. The hotel has an underground parking area. for the bike.
I walk around town for a few blocks and also find an internet cafe. I hear from James ( bike traveller from Manchester who been to Asia, India, Australia and South America in 20 months on Trumiph Tiger) who is in Bogota and give me the name of a good hostal.
During my walk around town I notice lots of millitay carrying automatic weapons and some concrete towers with solders inside. The towers tend to overlook the Plazas.
At 1700 hrs I see a small hotel with cafe next door on the opposite side of the road. I drop a "u" and book in and pay US$10 ( in Columbia you pay for your room at time of booking). The road is very noisy but I´m cold and its going to be dark soon. My bed is planks on two concrete block walls but is quite comfortable.
2nd March (Sunday)
I have now been ill for 4 or 5 weeks and food goes straight though me so I decide to start a course of Erythromyein. Since Dave left I have managed fine on one meal a day and Coke the rest of the time. I now also have stomach cramps. Still the good news is that I am losing weight and on the 8th March weight was 88kgs ( if the scales are to be beleived) thats 10 kgs down from the start of the trip. Supper tonight is US$2.50 but the noise here did´nt stop untill 0200 hrs.
I head north for the Ecuador monument and its a very overcast cool day, I miss any sign for the monument but have a nice drive though lush green mountains with very good fast toll roads. Bikes in Ecuador and Boliva pay tolls but in Columbia and Peru its free.
In Ecuador once you get north of Riobamba the roads are good. Its nice to get away from the cities and I arrive at the border at 1400 hrs. I get my passport exit stamp but the Aduna office(Customs) is closed for Sunday so technically no vechicles can enter or leave Ecuador.
I ask a young lad on a 125 cc Suzuki motor bike and he helps me though the procedure. I give my temporary import bike document to an Aduna officer in the street and move up the hill to the Columbia border. I get my passport entry stamp and theres no queue at all. I then go to the Aduna officer where a very nice lady ( with purple hair pieces) speaks english and she helps me with all the forms. I have to get documents photocopied so the lad takes me back to Ecuador on his 125 and we return to gain my temporary bike import document. I change some money with the street money changer as US$ not accepted in Columbia. I change my Peru currency and also change US$100 and get 1880 pesos per US$1. I have no idea at this stage wether this is good or not but have little choice at the border on a Sunday. I pay my new friend US$4 for his help.
Columbia here we come, entry has been no problem, in fact it was a pleasant experiance with a pretty girl. The lady also took a rubbing of my bike chasis number which I have never had done before. ( bit like brass rubbings in churches). I move though rolling hills/ mountains and steep valleys, very good roads and the houses have tiled roofs like the ones in Ecuador. The houses in Ecuador and Columbia are better built that Peru. In Ecuador and Columbia it is ilegal to import 2nd hand cars, so generally three cars on the road are better than Peru, Bolivia and Argentina.
Its a nice hot sunny day and I stop and take lots of photos of valleys but its difficult to stop as the road has deep gullies ( for rain) at the side and no hard shoulder.
On the way down one hill there is a huge traffic jam, a vechile has gone over, an ambulance takes patients away and a Toyota pick up loads the bodies. The traffic jam is caused by all the people parking and watching the rescue. There are about 20 cars abanonded on the side of the road and its these that are the real problem.
That evening I arrive at Pasto after a good 1st day in Columbia and find a hotel for 30,000 Pesos. I did stop in the main Plaza and within 5 mins have a crowd of about 20 people asking where am I from and what I am doing. Every one is so freindly and try to help. The crowd is a little big so I decide its time to move on. The hotel has an underground parking area. for the bike.
I walk around town for a few blocks and also find an internet cafe. I hear from James ( bike traveller from Manchester who been to Asia, India, Australia and South America in 20 months on Trumiph Tiger) who is in Bogota and give me the name of a good hostal.
During my walk around town I notice lots of millitay carrying automatic weapons and some concrete towers with solders inside. The towers tend to overlook the Plazas.
425Kgs of Honda goes flying and another punture
29th Feb
I leave te hostal by 0715 hrs and the roads in town are a mess, with huge ruts where the road has just been washed away. I get up to the main road and tarmac and all well except for a few pot holes. It´s 57 kms to the border where I arrive by 0815hrs. One office is still closed so I have to wait 15 mins. The river under the bridge to extremely full and fast flowing. I get my passport and bike documets stamped and approved in the three offices and have no hassle leaving. I had been told to expect some hassle for not having Peru bike insurance. I am the only one at the border who seems to require documents every one else is moving livestock back and forth across the border. Pigs are being hurded across and chickens also carried across. There are lots of pigs on the Peru side of the road with their 4 legs tied together and awaiting export!
It takes about 45mins to clear Peru customs and then I move across the bridge to Ecuador. The officer at the Ecuador border photocopies my passport, V5 and driving licence and then fills in a temporory import paper for the motorbike. No mention is made of bike insurance and after about another 45 mins I leave and head north for Loja. Its a wet ride as raining now but once there I don´t stop and carry on to Cuenca. The roads are tarmac but again full of deep pot holes so going is slow. I then see in front of me a fast spotted cat which crosses the road, it was the size of a medium dog. It is a nice drive but very up and down mountains so very slow going due to the pot holes. My speedo is still not working as I have been unable to buy alan keys. On the way into Cuenca the main road is detoured and we all drive though a huge muddy mess for miles as the new road is unfinished. I arrive in town and try not to go down into the centre as want to get going again tommorow early. I drive around and can´t find a hotel and in the end a huge American Ford pickup truck stops and offeres me help. I follow him back to his house and he rings his mate who has a hotel around the corner. He turns out to also have a new BMW R1200 GS. He gets his new bike out and shows me the way to the hotel. Ibook in and have ashow and then my phone rings, I think it mus tbe on the TV but no it´s my phone- who knows me here! I answer and there´s an english voice. Do I need any assistance or have any questions as the hotel owner is in reception , speaks english and drives a KTM 640. I go out to reception and we chat for about an hour. He gives ame advise on routes north to avoid the floods etc and also a route out of town for tommorrow. It thinks it will only take me 5 hours to get to Quito tommorrow ( it in fact takes me 10 hrs) The following morning I leave and pay US$ 25.62 for beb, breakfast, 3 course evening meal and mini bar.
1st March
I am allowed to use the hotel receptions computer to check my e-mails and send a few quick replies. I go to ATM as currency here US$ and draw US$200 for emergencies. The roads are tarmac but again full of pot holes and huge lumps where the land has moved or slipped due to the rain. I am driving too fast ( 80kph) and hit a huge lump in the road. The bike and me start to fly and I think I have not had bike flying lessons! As I land the suspension bottoms out and the bash plate hits the road. I think that was lucky I didn´t come off when you consider the bike, me, the full panniers, ruck sack and fuel weight 425kgs. About 10 miles further on I have a punture, but not before a white car decides to change direction when I am doing 80kph and he comes right across to my side of the road to avoid his sides pot holes. I manage to slow on the wet roads and miss him by a few millimetres. He looks at me as if he was doing nothing wrong- maybe there is some local culture that says this is normal and expected! I of course shout some abuse at him! As I arrive in the town of Zhud I stop right outside the tyre repair shop and get a young lad to help me hold the bike as I can not get it onto the side or centre stand due to the rear flat tyre. I unload the bike of all luggage and he helps me get it onto the centre stand. I remove the rear wheel and the tyre is very hot and then give it to the other young lad there running the shop. He has a pneumatic press to get break the tyre bead. I pay him US$5 to repair the inner tube and replace the tyre. I have about 6 young helpers all looking and asking questions and all below 18 years old. The inner tube has one split but is light weight and I have no spare. I leave and hope that is my last punture (fat chance) and know I need to buy a spare inner tube ( Dave has one).
The road for the next 20 kms is just terrible, no tarmac lots of holes and huge machinery digging at the hill side. It is also cloudy so viz again is down. It has been raining on and off again and is not very warm. The volcancos are hidden by the clouds.
I leave te hostal by 0715 hrs and the roads in town are a mess, with huge ruts where the road has just been washed away. I get up to the main road and tarmac and all well except for a few pot holes. It´s 57 kms to the border where I arrive by 0815hrs. One office is still closed so I have to wait 15 mins. The river under the bridge to extremely full and fast flowing. I get my passport and bike documets stamped and approved in the three offices and have no hassle leaving. I had been told to expect some hassle for not having Peru bike insurance. I am the only one at the border who seems to require documents every one else is moving livestock back and forth across the border. Pigs are being hurded across and chickens also carried across. There are lots of pigs on the Peru side of the road with their 4 legs tied together and awaiting export!
It takes about 45mins to clear Peru customs and then I move across the bridge to Ecuador. The officer at the Ecuador border photocopies my passport, V5 and driving licence and then fills in a temporory import paper for the motorbike. No mention is made of bike insurance and after about another 45 mins I leave and head north for Loja. Its a wet ride as raining now but once there I don´t stop and carry on to Cuenca. The roads are tarmac but again full of deep pot holes so going is slow. I then see in front of me a fast spotted cat which crosses the road, it was the size of a medium dog. It is a nice drive but very up and down mountains so very slow going due to the pot holes. My speedo is still not working as I have been unable to buy alan keys. On the way into Cuenca the main road is detoured and we all drive though a huge muddy mess for miles as the new road is unfinished. I arrive in town and try not to go down into the centre as want to get going again tommorow early. I drive around and can´t find a hotel and in the end a huge American Ford pickup truck stops and offeres me help. I follow him back to his house and he rings his mate who has a hotel around the corner. He turns out to also have a new BMW R1200 GS. He gets his new bike out and shows me the way to the hotel. Ibook in and have ashow and then my phone rings, I think it mus tbe on the TV but no it´s my phone- who knows me here! I answer and there´s an english voice. Do I need any assistance or have any questions as the hotel owner is in reception , speaks english and drives a KTM 640. I go out to reception and we chat for about an hour. He gives ame advise on routes north to avoid the floods etc and also a route out of town for tommorrow. It thinks it will only take me 5 hours to get to Quito tommorrow ( it in fact takes me 10 hrs) The following morning I leave and pay US$ 25.62 for beb, breakfast, 3 course evening meal and mini bar.
1st March
I am allowed to use the hotel receptions computer to check my e-mails and send a few quick replies. I go to ATM as currency here US$ and draw US$200 for emergencies. The roads are tarmac but again full of pot holes and huge lumps where the land has moved or slipped due to the rain. I am driving too fast ( 80kph) and hit a huge lump in the road. The bike and me start to fly and I think I have not had bike flying lessons! As I land the suspension bottoms out and the bash plate hits the road. I think that was lucky I didn´t come off when you consider the bike, me, the full panniers, ruck sack and fuel weight 425kgs. About 10 miles further on I have a punture, but not before a white car decides to change direction when I am doing 80kph and he comes right across to my side of the road to avoid his sides pot holes. I manage to slow on the wet roads and miss him by a few millimetres. He looks at me as if he was doing nothing wrong- maybe there is some local culture that says this is normal and expected! I of course shout some abuse at him! As I arrive in the town of Zhud I stop right outside the tyre repair shop and get a young lad to help me hold the bike as I can not get it onto the side or centre stand due to the rear flat tyre. I unload the bike of all luggage and he helps me get it onto the centre stand. I remove the rear wheel and the tyre is very hot and then give it to the other young lad there running the shop. He has a pneumatic press to get break the tyre bead. I pay him US$5 to repair the inner tube and replace the tyre. I have about 6 young helpers all looking and asking questions and all below 18 years old. The inner tube has one split but is light weight and I have no spare. I leave and hope that is my last punture (fat chance) and know I need to buy a spare inner tube ( Dave has one).
The road for the next 20 kms is just terrible, no tarmac lots of holes and huge machinery digging at the hill side. It is also cloudy so viz again is down. It has been raining on and off again and is not very warm. The volcancos are hidden by the clouds.
Saturday, 8 March 2008
South West Ecuador flooded
27th Feb
Roly still ill with stomach problems which has been going on for about 4 weeks now, still may mean I will lose some weight! Walk around town, along pier and generally chill out. Try to buy some Alen keys but no luck.
Meet 6 people from USA who are here surfing and a couple also live in San Diego.
I repack the bike and mange to get rid of the Gul dry bag. I enjoy a day sitting on the beach and swimming. I receive an e-mail from James about the terrible weather in southern Ecuador and that the roads are flooded, bridges are swept away and one main border may be closed. I draw up my travel plans options for Ecuador in light of this new information.
28th Feb.
Head north though lots more dessert and piles of rubbish along the sides of the roads. It appears the desert is the local rubbish dump and it smells terrible. Drive though Chiclayo annd Piura, buy some engine oil and then spend over two and a half hours trying to find my way out of town. It is hot today but overcast so no shadows for navigation. The main river bridges are closed to all traffic, in the end in frustration I use my compass to head north and take a track into open scrub land. I head north west and think it will meet the main road north but after another two hours I have to give up and go back to town. ( one of Dad´s short cuts!) I see a lizard about 800 mm long that crosses the road in front of me. I keep asking the way to the north but so many different answers, but finally I make it towards Sullana and up again into the mountains.
It is getting dark and is going to rain behind me. I make it to Los Lomos just in time before the heavens open. The town is small with a couple of small hostals, but the streets are full of ruts and holes. The local industry is coal and gold mining. I meet a guy who speaks English who shows me around town and helps me buy some tools ( can´t get Alen keys though). I manage to get a pressure gauge, 8mm spanner and a philips screw driver. It continues to rain heavily all night and my new freind tells me South West Ecuador is unpassable. Some of the sides of the bridges were missing having been washed away by the heavy rains. There are also rice paddy fields and lots of vultures ( may be condors). I am only 50 kms for the border now. The forecast is for three more days of heavy rain
Roly still ill with stomach problems which has been going on for about 4 weeks now, still may mean I will lose some weight! Walk around town, along pier and generally chill out. Try to buy some Alen keys but no luck.
Meet 6 people from USA who are here surfing and a couple also live in San Diego.
I repack the bike and mange to get rid of the Gul dry bag. I enjoy a day sitting on the beach and swimming. I receive an e-mail from James about the terrible weather in southern Ecuador and that the roads are flooded, bridges are swept away and one main border may be closed. I draw up my travel plans options for Ecuador in light of this new information.
28th Feb.
Head north though lots more dessert and piles of rubbish along the sides of the roads. It appears the desert is the local rubbish dump and it smells terrible. Drive though Chiclayo annd Piura, buy some engine oil and then spend over two and a half hours trying to find my way out of town. It is hot today but overcast so no shadows for navigation. The main river bridges are closed to all traffic, in the end in frustration I use my compass to head north and take a track into open scrub land. I head north west and think it will meet the main road north but after another two hours I have to give up and go back to town. ( one of Dad´s short cuts!) I see a lizard about 800 mm long that crosses the road in front of me. I keep asking the way to the north but so many different answers, but finally I make it towards Sullana and up again into the mountains.
It is getting dark and is going to rain behind me. I make it to Los Lomos just in time before the heavens open. The town is small with a couple of small hostals, but the streets are full of ruts and holes. The local industry is coal and gold mining. I meet a guy who speaks English who shows me around town and helps me buy some tools ( can´t get Alen keys though). I manage to get a pressure gauge, 8mm spanner and a philips screw driver. It continues to rain heavily all night and my new freind tells me South West Ecuador is unpassable. Some of the sides of the bridges were missing having been washed away by the heavy rains. There are also rice paddy fields and lots of vultures ( may be condors). I am only 50 kms for the border now. The forecast is for three more days of heavy rain
The last agruement and never to be seen again
26th Feb
The previous evening Dave had booked a taxi for 0730 hrs to show us the route out of town.
Before 0700 Dave asks can we leave at 0700 hrs I agree as long as he cancels his booked taxi for 0730. I ask Dave again 3 times and then we have an almightly row and shouting match and thats the start of yet another non communication day. We leave town 0705 hrs and get clear of the town but for two and a half hours Roly spends the time chasing Dave in the distance. Dave stops in a town but Roly sees him too late so stops about 500 metres further on at the petrol station. Dave wants coffee, we fill up with fuel and Dave asks for half the local curency (200 Sols). We are still not communicating so leave ignoring each other. Roly in then lead this time, after two hours Roly stops by the side of the road in the middle of the desert for lunch and waits for Dave so we can sort our differences out. Finally Dave arrives but waves and drives past. The original plan yesterday was to head north to a beach hotel for a couple of days chil out. I spend the rest of the day looking for Dave in towns I pass though and at petrol stations but I crack on until 1800 hrs and find a nice small town called Pacasmayo. The sun is setting, there is a nice surf beach, a pier and a good 3 * hotel. 1st hotel with a basin plug! Room 80 Sols a night, I e-mail Dave and tell him where I am and then discover 5 minutes later that he has been e-mailing me.
Dave´s e-mail says he is leaving and he had enough of me and will now travel alone. He finds me annoying. To be honest it is amazing we stayed together for so long. We are so opposite in every way and want completely different things from the trip.
Today my speedo cable broke 50 kms south of Pacasmayo but I need to buy some tools now to replace it as we had been sharing some tools.
I spend the evening having a few beers overlooking the sea and considering the consequences of Daves Action.
I´m annoyed that we didn´t communicate and that it ended like this and we didn´t have the chance to say farewell to each other.
The previous evening Dave had booked a taxi for 0730 hrs to show us the route out of town.
Before 0700 Dave asks can we leave at 0700 hrs I agree as long as he cancels his booked taxi for 0730. I ask Dave again 3 times and then we have an almightly row and shouting match and thats the start of yet another non communication day. We leave town 0705 hrs and get clear of the town but for two and a half hours Roly spends the time chasing Dave in the distance. Dave stops in a town but Roly sees him too late so stops about 500 metres further on at the petrol station. Dave wants coffee, we fill up with fuel and Dave asks for half the local curency (200 Sols). We are still not communicating so leave ignoring each other. Roly in then lead this time, after two hours Roly stops by the side of the road in the middle of the desert for lunch and waits for Dave so we can sort our differences out. Finally Dave arrives but waves and drives past. The original plan yesterday was to head north to a beach hotel for a couple of days chil out. I spend the rest of the day looking for Dave in towns I pass though and at petrol stations but I crack on until 1800 hrs and find a nice small town called Pacasmayo. The sun is setting, there is a nice surf beach, a pier and a good 3 * hotel. 1st hotel with a basin plug! Room 80 Sols a night, I e-mail Dave and tell him where I am and then discover 5 minutes later that he has been e-mailing me.
Dave´s e-mail says he is leaving and he had enough of me and will now travel alone. He finds me annoying. To be honest it is amazing we stayed together for so long. We are so opposite in every way and want completely different things from the trip.
Today my speedo cable broke 50 kms south of Pacasmayo but I need to buy some tools now to replace it as we had been sharing some tools.
I spend the evening having a few beers overlooking the sea and considering the consequences of Daves Action.
I´m annoyed that we didn´t communicate and that it ended like this and we didn´t have the chance to say farewell to each other.
Peru Customs agent dishonest and corrupt
I visit the airport and am pointed to L&P Cargo who I am told will help me get my DHL parcel though the customs procedures.
My regulator/retifier has a declared value of US$40 plu s ashipping cost of US$50. I am asked to pay US$169 in fees and duty and also in cash. I have to have a legal document drawn up by the customs agent which takes another couple of hours and then we have to get our taxi ( which we have since 0900 hrs ) to take us to a Notaria ( solisitator) to get the document witnesses, signed and finger printed. It takes us another couple of hours to find a Notoria that´s open on a Saturday afternoon and when we get there he tells us the agents legal document is incorrect and needs to be redone. We sit and wait another hour and a half while a new document is drawn up. Many photocopies later of passports, bike registrations docs and god knows what else we leave and I pay another 65 Sols. I have to put my index finger print onto the document and of course sign it. The document made no sence and could have been my death warrenty expect for the fact words like Regulator, Honda and import were there. We finally get back to the hotel at 1700 hrs and have had our taxi for 8 hrs and it cost 160 Sols. I was told I could collect the part at 1600 hrs Monday so we had to wait the rest of the weekend in Lima.
Roly´s hopping mad by how but Dave has remained calm though out.
We go for a KFC lunch at 1700 hrs and again for supper at 2000 hrs
24th Feb
We change the tyre this morning and also repalce the inner tube which has had it after 750 miles of wobble. The Avon tyre now has a split though the inside side wall for 50% of its length on one side. We discover that I am missing the correct spacer on one side and that I had used the old wheel bearing at my last break down ( I remember my willing unwanted helper, my correct spacer will now be under a pew in the church at Paltaybamba ,220 kms for Cusco).
Lima is nice and hot today which makes a welcome change, Roly buys some new sun glasses for 5 Sols. All the resturants seem to be closing early as its Sunday so we have to eat KFC again.
25th Feb
We receive a phone call this morning saying we need to go back to the customs agent as they forgot to have my passport photocopied and certified. Roly´s ready to murder some one. Another few taxi rides, another visit to a Notoria and another wait of 24 hours to get the parcel.
The country was more advanced 500 years ago when there was no method of recording events.
Back at the customs agent we now told I have to pay a further US$ 35 to have the name changed on the documents for my Club South American Explorers to Roly.
I pay again and now expec the parcel Tuesday 1200 hrs.
I go downstairs to the DHL office and ask then to ensure the parcel does not go to Cusco. They say I have to ring the DHL number and make that request.
I decide to visit another 3 DHL offices in town until I find a guy who speaks good english. He tells me the customs agent has led me up the garden path and the DHL papaer work still needs filling in and there was a further problem and I am unlikely to receive my parcel for at least another 2 or 3 days. The invoice and contents do not exactly agree enen though the extra items have a combined value of about US$1. I need to get a signed fax from the London exporter to explain the difference. I give up go mad and we decide we will leave Lima with nothing as we just can not afford to wait any longer for this item. Dave had managed to get the spare regulator/retifier working that we had despite it having an 8th extra wire. Harrison and Jeanne had sent us by e-mail new wiring diagrams.
We visit the Honda dealeragain and try and buy another wheel spacer but no luck so buy a couple of large washers from a hardware store further down the road.
We visit the American Airlines to try and change our homeward bound tickets as we will not in at San Diego by 15th March. We are told the tickets expire on 31st March which we know is incorect but we can do nothing except contact our UK travel agent by e-mail.
We go to Starbucks for a chill out expensive coffee.
My regulator/retifier has a declared value of US$40 plu s ashipping cost of US$50. I am asked to pay US$169 in fees and duty and also in cash. I have to have a legal document drawn up by the customs agent which takes another couple of hours and then we have to get our taxi ( which we have since 0900 hrs ) to take us to a Notaria ( solisitator) to get the document witnesses, signed and finger printed. It takes us another couple of hours to find a Notoria that´s open on a Saturday afternoon and when we get there he tells us the agents legal document is incorrect and needs to be redone. We sit and wait another hour and a half while a new document is drawn up. Many photocopies later of passports, bike registrations docs and god knows what else we leave and I pay another 65 Sols. I have to put my index finger print onto the document and of course sign it. The document made no sence and could have been my death warrenty expect for the fact words like Regulator, Honda and import were there. We finally get back to the hotel at 1700 hrs and have had our taxi for 8 hrs and it cost 160 Sols. I was told I could collect the part at 1600 hrs Monday so we had to wait the rest of the weekend in Lima.
Roly´s hopping mad by how but Dave has remained calm though out.
We go for a KFC lunch at 1700 hrs and again for supper at 2000 hrs
24th Feb
We change the tyre this morning and also repalce the inner tube which has had it after 750 miles of wobble. The Avon tyre now has a split though the inside side wall for 50% of its length on one side. We discover that I am missing the correct spacer on one side and that I had used the old wheel bearing at my last break down ( I remember my willing unwanted helper, my correct spacer will now be under a pew in the church at Paltaybamba ,220 kms for Cusco).
Lima is nice and hot today which makes a welcome change, Roly buys some new sun glasses for 5 Sols. All the resturants seem to be closing early as its Sunday so we have to eat KFC again.
25th Feb
We receive a phone call this morning saying we need to go back to the customs agent as they forgot to have my passport photocopied and certified. Roly´s ready to murder some one. Another few taxi rides, another visit to a Notoria and another wait of 24 hours to get the parcel.
The country was more advanced 500 years ago when there was no method of recording events.
Back at the customs agent we now told I have to pay a further US$ 35 to have the name changed on the documents for my Club South American Explorers to Roly.
I pay again and now expec the parcel Tuesday 1200 hrs.
I go downstairs to the DHL office and ask then to ensure the parcel does not go to Cusco. They say I have to ring the DHL number and make that request.
I decide to visit another 3 DHL offices in town until I find a guy who speaks good english. He tells me the customs agent has led me up the garden path and the DHL papaer work still needs filling in and there was a further problem and I am unlikely to receive my parcel for at least another 2 or 3 days. The invoice and contents do not exactly agree enen though the extra items have a combined value of about US$1. I need to get a signed fax from the London exporter to explain the difference. I give up go mad and we decide we will leave Lima with nothing as we just can not afford to wait any longer for this item. Dave had managed to get the spare regulator/retifier working that we had despite it having an 8th extra wire. Harrison and Jeanne had sent us by e-mail new wiring diagrams.
We visit the Honda dealeragain and try and buy another wheel spacer but no luck so buy a couple of large washers from a hardware store further down the road.
We visit the American Airlines to try and change our homeward bound tickets as we will not in at San Diego by 15th March. We are told the tickets expire on 31st March which we know is incorect but we can do nothing except contact our UK travel agent by e-mail.
We go to Starbucks for a chill out expensive coffee.
Friday, 7 March 2008
Nasca to Lima
22nd Feb
We say our goodbyes to Pablo and Mariela and leave Nasca for Lima. It is hot and sunny, no clouds and aprox 400 kms to Lima. Apart from the rear tyre problem we have a good drive along straight roads, though lots of desert, sand dunes and loads of huge battery chichen sheds.
We also pass some large walled military compounds. About 80 kms from Lima we stop for fuel and now notice Roly has a soft rear tyre. we pump up the tyre from 18psi to 38 psi and leave with dave behind keeping a eye on the tyre. 20 kms further on we stop and check again now 34psi. The wheel is now all over the palce and its difficult to drive in traffic. Every one is looking at the wobbly bike. In the town centre we get a taxi and follow it to the hostal we had be recommended. We finally make the hotel by 1800hrs. Hotel room 47 Sols per room(2 beds).
Policemans holds up the traffic for us so we can turn around on the one way street and drive the bikes up the pavement and into the hotel reception.
23rd Feb
Today we visit some motorbike shops and manage to buy a new rear tyre for Roly´s bike and also some new gloves for Dave and also some spare wheel bearings for Roly. Great Honda agent in Lima who is very helpfull and cheap. Tyre costs US$72 and bearing only US$5 each. The only thing we can not get is a HD inner tube for Roly´s bike. We then head for the Airport to find a Customs agent who can help us get our parcel though Peruvian customs ( and what a story that will be).
We say our goodbyes to Pablo and Mariela and leave Nasca for Lima. It is hot and sunny, no clouds and aprox 400 kms to Lima. Apart from the rear tyre problem we have a good drive along straight roads, though lots of desert, sand dunes and loads of huge battery chichen sheds.
We also pass some large walled military compounds. About 80 kms from Lima we stop for fuel and now notice Roly has a soft rear tyre. we pump up the tyre from 18psi to 38 psi and leave with dave behind keeping a eye on the tyre. 20 kms further on we stop and check again now 34psi. The wheel is now all over the palce and its difficult to drive in traffic. Every one is looking at the wobbly bike. In the town centre we get a taxi and follow it to the hostal we had be recommended. We finally make the hotel by 1800hrs. Hotel room 47 Sols per room(2 beds).
Policemans holds up the traffic for us so we can turn around on the one way street and drive the bikes up the pavement and into the hotel reception.
23rd Feb
Today we visit some motorbike shops and manage to buy a new rear tyre for Roly´s bike and also some new gloves for Dave and also some spare wheel bearings for Roly. Great Honda agent in Lima who is very helpfull and cheap. Tyre costs US$72 and bearing only US$5 each. The only thing we can not get is a HD inner tube for Roly´s bike. We then head for the Airport to find a Customs agent who can help us get our parcel though Peruvian customs ( and what a story that will be).
Avon Gripster tyre gives up after only 2850 miles
Once I reached the tarmac I decided to contunue as it was dry and a bright evening, especially considering the amount of rain we had, had all day. The concrete river crossings were higher than before so I got my feet wet. I drove up the step switch backs up towards the pass at 4300 metres and it started to get cold as I drove into the clouds. For 25 kms I had only 3 centre line dashs viz. I was cold but the viz was the main problem. The landslides were still everywhere but no problem for cars or bikes but a bit narrow for lorries and buses. As soon as I passed tehtop the cloud cover cleared and it was a pleasant drive down into Ollantaytambo were I arrived at 2230hrs. The resturant were dave had a curry was closed, in fact nearly every thing ws closed so I again decided to continue onto Urubamba. I was on reserve fuel and no fuel staions were open until I arrived in Urubamba were I managed to get 94 octaine fuel. It was now 2330 and just stating to rain so time for cover and bed. I drive up the hill and manage to pitch my tent under a shelter used to sell local stuff to tourists. I sleep well until 0530 and sun rise.
19th Feb
I drive into Cusco for 0700 hrs and have a good breakfast and then wake Dave about 0800.
We visit the DHL office to find that my part for the Honda is in Lima and we have to complete loads of legal documents and pay the duty before the parcel will be released to Cusco and even then we will have to wait a further 3 days. We are told if we go to Lima it may speed things up.
We decide to leave Cusco and head for Lima ( we have been in Cusco for 17 nights) and that morning there was another demonstration and Fred ( from Canada) arrives on his BMW R1200 GS after having to drive though fields to get into town due to the violence at the road blocks. That evening we go out and eat Guinea pig for the first time (OK)
20thFeb
We leave town by 0700 hrs with a couple from Argentina ( Pablo and Mariela) who had not been able to leave town yesterday due to the road blocks and threats against them. Three bikes and four people should have less problems. We notice lots of rubish on the roads like huge rocks, tree trunks, glass, telegraph poles and stones. The roads are a mess for miles and though most of the towns today.
I notice I now have a wheel whobble below speeds of 60 kph. The previous evening I had topped up the rear tyre to 40psi from only 20psi. Roly´s tyre is getting worse as the day progress. We stop in a dirty town for lunch and Pablo and Mariela order us the set menu for 8 Sols each. We have chichen soup for starters and Pablo´s has a whole foot in it which does slightly put us all off!
Dave has trouble eating his main chicken course after this!
After lunch Dave discovers the rear tyre on Roly´s bike has a small bulge in the side wall. This tyre ( Avon Gripster) was new only 2850 miles ago in Mendoza. We have no choice but to continue but Roly´s bike how has a permanant wobble at slow sppeds, we push on for Nasca but going around sharp corners is a little intresting and makes steering difficult. We rise up high again over more tight switch backs into the mountains and it gets colder at we reach the top at 4300 metres. At the top we had hoped to drop down again but discover the Alti plateau is huge and goes on for miles. We spend hours driving across flat open rock covered plateau like Dartmoor on a much bigger scale. The Granite boulders are huge and the rivers also. Dave in the last town drove passed Pablo, Mariela and myself so we spent the next four hours trying to catch him without any luck as he was driving like a pocessed being. The plateau was long high and cold and we eventually caught Dave doing 110 kph along a straight. He was surprised to see us from behind and he was by now on reserve fuel so was considering having to camp by the side of the road. We were not going to make Nasca today, Roly still doing 100 kph on the straights but the clouds were low thick and cold so viz ws not good and progress was very slow. As we drop down off the Alti Plateau the roads become full of pot holes and soon turn into mud and some gravel and this continues into town. The town is filthy, muddy and the worse town we have ever seen. We ask for the best hostal in town and were not impressed still we have no choice annd pay 40Sols per room. No hot water and we are all cold. dave and Roly go out to get some hot food and a beer but no beer in town so we have a bottle of red wine and some more chicken. The local ATM was broken so we were getting low on funds.
21st Feb
We manage to get black coffee in the only clean cafe in town, fill up with fuel and again rise up over more poor roads full of pot holes. Roly´s rear tyre getting worse and difficult to steer at speeds less than 60kph. By 1430 hrs the roads finally get better and as we approach Nasca it also gets warmer and sunny. We soon find a nice hotel with swimming pool and book in and imediately book our flights over the Nascxa lines on a small 6 seater plane. The hotel is a massive US$ 15 ahead and the flights US$50 each. We are advise to only have a light late lunch (1500hrs) as the flight may be a little rough. We again eat the set local menu exept Dave who has Pasta. We see an excellant BBC documentary DVD on the Nasca lines and then board the small single prop Cesna at 1700 hrs. We have a 35 min flight over the lines which as very intresting but also a bit disapointing and certainly difficult to photograph as the plane banks over to each side so we can all get a view in turn. We were the last flight of the day and also saw the sun set.
19th Feb
I drive into Cusco for 0700 hrs and have a good breakfast and then wake Dave about 0800.
We visit the DHL office to find that my part for the Honda is in Lima and we have to complete loads of legal documents and pay the duty before the parcel will be released to Cusco and even then we will have to wait a further 3 days. We are told if we go to Lima it may speed things up.
We decide to leave Cusco and head for Lima ( we have been in Cusco for 17 nights) and that morning there was another demonstration and Fred ( from Canada) arrives on his BMW R1200 GS after having to drive though fields to get into town due to the violence at the road blocks. That evening we go out and eat Guinea pig for the first time (OK)
20thFeb
We leave town by 0700 hrs with a couple from Argentina ( Pablo and Mariela) who had not been able to leave town yesterday due to the road blocks and threats against them. Three bikes and four people should have less problems. We notice lots of rubish on the roads like huge rocks, tree trunks, glass, telegraph poles and stones. The roads are a mess for miles and though most of the towns today.
I notice I now have a wheel whobble below speeds of 60 kph. The previous evening I had topped up the rear tyre to 40psi from only 20psi. Roly´s tyre is getting worse as the day progress. We stop in a dirty town for lunch and Pablo and Mariela order us the set menu for 8 Sols each. We have chichen soup for starters and Pablo´s has a whole foot in it which does slightly put us all off!
Dave has trouble eating his main chicken course after this!
After lunch Dave discovers the rear tyre on Roly´s bike has a small bulge in the side wall. This tyre ( Avon Gripster) was new only 2850 miles ago in Mendoza. We have no choice but to continue but Roly´s bike how has a permanant wobble at slow sppeds, we push on for Nasca but going around sharp corners is a little intresting and makes steering difficult. We rise up high again over more tight switch backs into the mountains and it gets colder at we reach the top at 4300 metres. At the top we had hoped to drop down again but discover the Alti plateau is huge and goes on for miles. We spend hours driving across flat open rock covered plateau like Dartmoor on a much bigger scale. The Granite boulders are huge and the rivers also. Dave in the last town drove passed Pablo, Mariela and myself so we spent the next four hours trying to catch him without any luck as he was driving like a pocessed being. The plateau was long high and cold and we eventually caught Dave doing 110 kph along a straight. He was surprised to see us from behind and he was by now on reserve fuel so was considering having to camp by the side of the road. We were not going to make Nasca today, Roly still doing 100 kph on the straights but the clouds were low thick and cold so viz ws not good and progress was very slow. As we drop down off the Alti Plateau the roads become full of pot holes and soon turn into mud and some gravel and this continues into town. The town is filthy, muddy and the worse town we have ever seen. We ask for the best hostal in town and were not impressed still we have no choice annd pay 40Sols per room. No hot water and we are all cold. dave and Roly go out to get some hot food and a beer but no beer in town so we have a bottle of red wine and some more chicken. The local ATM was broken so we were getting low on funds.
21st Feb
We manage to get black coffee in the only clean cafe in town, fill up with fuel and again rise up over more poor roads full of pot holes. Roly´s rear tyre getting worse and difficult to steer at speeds less than 60kph. By 1430 hrs the roads finally get better and as we approach Nasca it also gets warmer and sunny. We soon find a nice hotel with swimming pool and book in and imediately book our flights over the Nascxa lines on a small 6 seater plane. The hotel is a massive US$ 15 ahead and the flights US$50 each. We are advise to only have a light late lunch (1500hrs) as the flight may be a little rough. We again eat the set local menu exept Dave who has Pasta. We see an excellant BBC documentary DVD on the Nasca lines and then board the small single prop Cesna at 1700 hrs. We have a 35 min flight over the lines which as very intresting but also a bit disapointing and certainly difficult to photograph as the plane banks over to each side so we can all get a view in turn. We were the last flight of the day and also saw the sun set.
Monday, 25 February 2008
Self Rescue the long (slow) way round
The bus travels a maxium speed of 30 mph and I get a front seat which has a little more leg room and is below the roof vent. It gets dark at about 1930 hrs and then every one closes their windows and the driver replaces the roof vent which had fallen off earlier. Now the bus is more like a prision, I think I now suffer from Claustraphobia, must be getting old! After what seems a life time of hell we arrive at Cusco bus station at 2345 hrs. We stopped once during the trip for a loo and drinks break and this was in the jungle by the side of the road. Not sure this experiance needs repeating. I catch a Taxi to the hostal and wake Dave to let me into the room as he has locked himself in and closed all the windows.
18th Feb
We manage to get the wheel bearings replaced with some help from our friendly local bike shop, and then arrange for a taxi to take me, my ruck sack, bike jacket and wheel to Ollantaytambo. The starting price is US$60 but we end up on agreeing to 60 Sols (GBP10). The Taxi picks me up at 1030 hrs and we arrive at Ollantaytambo by 1135 hrs. I have an early lunch on the Plaza and then arrange for another Taxi which costs 150 Sols (GBP25) or US$70 ( I opt for the 150 Sols) to take me to Chaullay. We leave by 1230 hrs. The driver goes like a mad think and is certainly in a hurry and we make good time up the tarmac switch backs, half way up he buys some flowers for 1 Sol from a stall outside a house and further up he tells me his Inca farther was killed in an accident in this pass. We then pick up a local Inca who is walking up the pass with a heavy load and we give him alift to his house further up, he is dressed in very colourfull clothes ( more like you would expect to assume the tourist in Cusco). His children welcome him home and are also dressed well and also in bright colourful clothes made by the family. The Adobe hut however is anoher thing. I wonder how they keep their clothes so clean. At the top of the pass at 4300 metres is a little church where we stop for the driver to light a candle and place his flowers and say a little pray. We then move on down the other side (after the driver gives the 3 hail mary´s sign of the cross) where it is raining hard and also very misty. The river crossings in the road are higher than before and theland slides seem worse. In a little time we come across a huge front loader JCB trying to clear a huge land slide which nearly fills the whole road, lorries and buses are waiting to pass from the other side but the width is too narrow. We are waved though with much concern from the work man ( still looking up at the moving land slip) and my driver who gives another 3 hail mary´s. The taxi driver then puts his foot down and speeds though the narrow gap and give a big sigh of releif having got though. The rain is heavy now and there are more smaller land slides all along the route. On the roads in South America there are generally three ways to cross rivers: 1. a bridge 2. a concrete slab laid in a dip to channel the water over the road and 3. nothing at all but the river bed which moves depending on the the amount of water in the river.
Most of todays rivers/roads have concrete slabs which my driver seems to think are best attacked in 3rd gear at speed regardless of the water depth. We finally arrive at Chaullay after a fast journey across gravel, mud, pot holes etc ( last 60 kms is not tarmac) and how his car remained in one piece is amazing. I expect we wanted to get back to the pass before it got dark.
I am dropped off at the bridge just below the town heading up into the jungle and we say out goodbyes.
I walk about 500 metres to the next road juntion ( I have my ruck sack as I may need to sleep at the side of the road tonight). Within 5 minutes a minibus arrives and picks me up, I load my rear wheel and ruck sack onto the roof and tie them down next to loads of other luggage including live chickens.
I climb into the Nissan minibus ( in Europe we may call this a 9 seater) and luckly get the seat next to the sliding door with a open window. I count the number of passengers as they all stare at me, we have 17 adults and 5 children aboard! At each village along the way we stop and drop of pasengers and bags and each time I get out to make sure I am the last one back on to get my window seat.
We finally arrive at Paltaybamba which was about 16 kms from Chaullay and 220 kms from Cusco. My bike had been blessed overnight and it was now 1705 hrs ( the journey to Cusco had been 11 hrs and my return 7 and 1/2). I go to the shop and find little old lady is away but todays shopkeeper is her daughter, she gives me the keys to the little church and by 1805 hrs I have the wheel back on and luggage tied down. I give the shop keeper 50 Sols (GBP8) and thank her very much for looking after my bike. The Daughter tries to refuse the money but I insist and then I leave with much waving from the whole village. In the next village I am also waved at by those who I helped with their logs and also those who gave me some Chicha. I feel like a local celebrity. My plan was to check out the road to Santa Teresa (south of Chaullay) and the Hydroelectric power station and hope fully find the road to Macchu Picchu but it was getting late and I reckoned I had 1 and half hours of day light left. I drove though the muddy and gravel jungle tracks as quickly as possible as I would like to get back to the tarmac before it got dark. In the end this was not possible, but as the head lights on the Africa Twin are so good I had no problem seeing my way so decided to keep going and had little problems seeing all the pot holes ahead. In the dark ( by 1930 hrs) there were many new strange noises but I finally reached the tarmac road by 2030 hrs.
18th Feb
We manage to get the wheel bearings replaced with some help from our friendly local bike shop, and then arrange for a taxi to take me, my ruck sack, bike jacket and wheel to Ollantaytambo. The starting price is US$60 but we end up on agreeing to 60 Sols (GBP10). The Taxi picks me up at 1030 hrs and we arrive at Ollantaytambo by 1135 hrs. I have an early lunch on the Plaza and then arrange for another Taxi which costs 150 Sols (GBP25) or US$70 ( I opt for the 150 Sols) to take me to Chaullay. We leave by 1230 hrs. The driver goes like a mad think and is certainly in a hurry and we make good time up the tarmac switch backs, half way up he buys some flowers for 1 Sol from a stall outside a house and further up he tells me his Inca farther was killed in an accident in this pass. We then pick up a local Inca who is walking up the pass with a heavy load and we give him alift to his house further up, he is dressed in very colourfull clothes ( more like you would expect to assume the tourist in Cusco). His children welcome him home and are also dressed well and also in bright colourful clothes made by the family. The Adobe hut however is anoher thing. I wonder how they keep their clothes so clean. At the top of the pass at 4300 metres is a little church where we stop for the driver to light a candle and place his flowers and say a little pray. We then move on down the other side (after the driver gives the 3 hail mary´s sign of the cross) where it is raining hard and also very misty. The river crossings in the road are higher than before and theland slides seem worse. In a little time we come across a huge front loader JCB trying to clear a huge land slide which nearly fills the whole road, lorries and buses are waiting to pass from the other side but the width is too narrow. We are waved though with much concern from the work man ( still looking up at the moving land slip) and my driver who gives another 3 hail mary´s. The taxi driver then puts his foot down and speeds though the narrow gap and give a big sigh of releif having got though. The rain is heavy now and there are more smaller land slides all along the route. On the roads in South America there are generally three ways to cross rivers: 1. a bridge 2. a concrete slab laid in a dip to channel the water over the road and 3. nothing at all but the river bed which moves depending on the the amount of water in the river.
Most of todays rivers/roads have concrete slabs which my driver seems to think are best attacked in 3rd gear at speed regardless of the water depth. We finally arrive at Chaullay after a fast journey across gravel, mud, pot holes etc ( last 60 kms is not tarmac) and how his car remained in one piece is amazing. I expect we wanted to get back to the pass before it got dark.
I am dropped off at the bridge just below the town heading up into the jungle and we say out goodbyes.
I walk about 500 metres to the next road juntion ( I have my ruck sack as I may need to sleep at the side of the road tonight). Within 5 minutes a minibus arrives and picks me up, I load my rear wheel and ruck sack onto the roof and tie them down next to loads of other luggage including live chickens.
I climb into the Nissan minibus ( in Europe we may call this a 9 seater) and luckly get the seat next to the sliding door with a open window. I count the number of passengers as they all stare at me, we have 17 adults and 5 children aboard! At each village along the way we stop and drop of pasengers and bags and each time I get out to make sure I am the last one back on to get my window seat.
We finally arrive at Paltaybamba which was about 16 kms from Chaullay and 220 kms from Cusco. My bike had been blessed overnight and it was now 1705 hrs ( the journey to Cusco had been 11 hrs and my return 7 and 1/2). I go to the shop and find little old lady is away but todays shopkeeper is her daughter, she gives me the keys to the little church and by 1805 hrs I have the wheel back on and luggage tied down. I give the shop keeper 50 Sols (GBP8) and thank her very much for looking after my bike. The Daughter tries to refuse the money but I insist and then I leave with much waving from the whole village. In the next village I am also waved at by those who I helped with their logs and also those who gave me some Chicha. I feel like a local celebrity. My plan was to check out the road to Santa Teresa (south of Chaullay) and the Hydroelectric power station and hope fully find the road to Macchu Picchu but it was getting late and I reckoned I had 1 and half hours of day light left. I drove though the muddy and gravel jungle tracks as quickly as possible as I would like to get back to the tarmac before it got dark. In the end this was not possible, but as the head lights on the Africa Twin are so good I had no problem seeing my way so decided to keep going and had little problems seeing all the pot holes ahead. In the dark ( by 1930 hrs) there were many new strange noises but I finally reached the tarmac road by 2030 hrs.
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