Columbia

Supper tonight is deep fat fried fish and chips, salad and rice + 2 cokes all for 20,000. I sit eating and watch the traffic go pasts (just like the local) and many pick up trucks and lorries stop at the watering hole to throw water at their radiators and brakes. The main street is lined with small shops and restaurants and once it gets dark all looks very nice as you can no longer see all the rubbish and ugly bits. It is a very noisy night with traffic going past all night and the bridge has a 20 kph limit and is right next to the hotel. The road sides are still strimmed by an army of workers on Chinese 125cc motorbikes and strimmer even though we are miles from any large town. There are also small 125cc motor bikes pulling trailers and huge lorries also pulling 5 or 6 trailers like road trains loaded with what looks like sugar beat. I'm sure it was a good idea to stay here the night rather than drive though the night to Bogota which is about another 80 kms.

Columbia is the first country I stay in where you pay for the hotel on booking in and in fact this becomes the norm now until the end of the trip. Toll roads are free to motorbikes in Columbia.

5th March
Set off by 0740 hrs and still don't know the towns name but I am east of Flandes. It is very hot and humid and the roads are good though small towns and we even get some dual carriageway and choice of routes though or around some towns.
Once I arrive in the centre of Bogota I say goodbye to me 125 cc friend and he goes to work, I am then joined by about 10 army solders and police in no 1 uniforms all wanting to know about the trip and asking me where I am going. I am in Plaza del la Bolivar and next to the court house. Some one in the large group speaks English so we exchange lots of info and in the end they radio for a police motorbike and tell him to show me the way to my hostel (Platypus). The police guy speaks no English and rides a Yamaha XT600 and takes me across town under blue flashing lights and in and out of all the traffic to Hotel Bogota, I then tell him this is incorrect and so we go back passed where we started and after over an hour and a half we finally find the tiny Hostel Platypus in the old town. My Police escorts looks relieved and please to get rid of me. I thanked my escort and went in search of James who I had met in Cusco and was travelling at least a week ahead of me. James was having breakfast in a little street cafe and it was now 1130 hrs.
I receive a good welcome and also have a healthy breakfast of muesli, yogurt, fruit and honey!
James and I end up sharing a room in the hostel for 20,000 per night. Clean place but very old and run down but with great atmosphere and also 3 computers with good fast Internet access. I end up spending 11 hours on the Internet over the next week. Today I have my appetite back and have a good lunch and then walk around the streets. I think this is the nicest city I have stayed in in all of South America ( I don't like cities at the best of times). There is lots going on and lots of small shops, bars and cafes. James has done lots of home work on how to get to Panama with the bikes and there are two options. Fly from Bogota to Panama for US$800 (bike only) or drive to Cartiagena ( 4 days away) and get a yacht to take you and the bike to Colon ( min another 5 days) but about US$350 in total. Only a month ago the bike flight was less than US$500 but there seems to have been a major shake up in the system. I opt for the flight and then receive an e-mail back from GIRAG Air Cargo telling me to be at there office at 0800 hrs tomorrow. That evening I repack the panniers with all the heavy items and sharps. I will use the tank bag as my carry on and put my ruck sack on as plane luggage.
6th March
Leave hostel 0740 hrs after giving beggar a few peso's for looking after my bike and say bye to James in case I don't come back. I have arranged to follow a taxi to the airport so I don't get lost. arrive at airport 0800 hrs and met Ana from GIRAG. I have to pay US$800 in local cash ( VISA not accepted). I also have to photocopy loads of documents and fill in many forms and all 3 times. Two pallets are laid up a flight of 7 steps and I drive the bike up into the reception and right into the warehouse. The bike and panniers weight in at 288 kgs. I then empty the fuel, disconnect the battery, reduce the tyre pressures and then have to go to the 1st customs office for more papers, then the police office then back to GIRAG and pay 1,478,400.00 Colombian.
I head off to the main airport ATM and after much trouble manage to draw on on debt and visa cards enough local currency ( one and half million) which is a huge wad. Another police form has to be filled in and photocopied and then another visit to another office about 500 metres away. Back to fill in another 3 forms and then I have to wait for a police bike inspection. I go for lunch as am told it will be a while. I then have to empty all the pannier contents out on the warehouse floor for the police and dog to inspect. All liquids are checked and then I am allowed to repack. Yet more forms are filled in and photocopied and after paying my one and half million Pesos, I have to wait for 1600 Pesos change after what seems an age I decide to leave without it as it is now 1330 hrs. I now return to the Platypus hostel with my helmet, rucksack and bike clothing + tank bag by taxi. That afternoon I decide to walk down into the newer part of town and soon hear some explosions and soon find myself in the middle of a demonstration. The riot police are dressed like Robocop in black alkathene articulated jointed suits and large shields and helmets with armoured cars with water and tear gas cannon. Shops are closing up and pulling down steel shutters and all the people are moving fast my way so I decide to turn around and go with the crowd. I seem to be the wrong side of the street and then find myself next to people in suits and also rioters throwing petrol bombs.