The correct GIRAG office turns out to be 1000 metres around the airport perimeter fence. Once here I dump my rucksack, helmet, tank bag and jacket as its very hot humid and sunny. I collect one piece of paper and make my way to the quarantine Aduna (Customs) office which is another 2000 metres away. The Aduna stamp and sign this and I go to the next Aduna office another 1000 metres away then back to GIRAG for another stamp and so on for a few more visits to offices and then finally back to the 1st GIRAG office. lots of times I managed to hitch a lift with local airport staff driving around the fence. By now its nearly midday and extremely hot and humid. On one trip I met a guy on a Kawasaki 650 from Bolivia intending to go back to South America soon. At he final GIRAG office I get the bike which is already off the pallet and there are no storage charges to pay which was a nice surprise. I reconnect the battery, replace the mirrors and tie on my luggage and then drink as much water as I can. The nearest petrol station as about 1250 metres away and I make it here for fuel but they have no air for my soft tyres. At the last Aduna office they assured me that I did not need a separate document for my bike for Panama ( only the stamp for the bike in my passport) The next gas station has air so I manage to top up the tyres to 30 and 40 psi. I question again the fact that I have no bike temporary import papers and told not necessary. I finally leave the airport at 1330 hrs and head into to Panama city as the airport was 20 kms south of the city. I stop for lunch as Mac Donald's and ask the way north and get two different answers. In the end another customer says he will show me the correct way across the Panama canal and north. About 5 minutes later the driver of the car points right and I head off and cross the huge bridge over the canal at 1400 hrs ( sadly I can't stop for a photo as the road is dual carriageway and fast moving traffic). I stop a couple of times however in the shade as the bike does not feel right but can find nothing wrong. I am now on toll roads and each toll is US$ 50 cents for motorbikes. The roads are fast and flat up until Santiago and then get a little hilly for the last 100 kms into the city of David. The going is now a little slower and at 1730 hrs I am stopped by a Army and Aduna check point and am asked for my temporary bike import documents. Sure enough I have the incorrect documents and we agree that I can continue if I go to the Aduna office tomorrow morning at the airport in David. I of course agree. David is about one hour away or so I am told or about 80 kms. Earlier that afternoon (1530 hrs) I had driven passed a police motor bike who had half heartily signalled me to pull over. I felt there was enough confusion with the lorry behind me. I needed to get to David before it was dark so I was going like hell. Thre were lots of Police bikes on the road sides today but by 1730 hrs they appeared to have all gone home as I hadn't seen one for ages but then at 1830 hrs I was stopped for speeding doing 92kph in a 60 kms zone. I was shown the radar gun and told to give up my passport driving licence and US$50. I would be awarded 5 points on my licence. We settled for US$ 30 cash and no points on my licence or any paperwork.
The police officer said it would now take me 30 minutes to get to David. I finally arrive at my hotel in David at 2000 hrs. Every one I have asked for distances or travel times have always been miles out. I was told Panama was 1000 miles long but it was in fact 375 kms then I was told San Jose was 500 kms from the border in fact within 5 mins I saw a sign saying it was 300kms. My hotel tonight is US$ 32 and I finally get to eat by 2045 hrs. My ankles are sore and itchy but not swollen. It has been a long hot, humid day and I have had these bike boots on since 0445 hrs
11th March
Full cooked breakfast this morning and then change my speedo cable as speedo has not worked since 700 kms north of Lima which has meant I need to refuel every 3 hrs to be safe and not run out of fuel. The new cable makes no difference so I expect the small cog at the wheel is broken, but I will not look now as need to push on. I should be flying home on the 15th March from San Diego but I lost one week in BA due to UK customs delaying the bikes departure from Heathrow and then another 2 and half weeks in Peru ( Cusco and Lima) due to DHL delays and the Customs agent incompetence trying to get the release of a parcel with a new Honda Regulator/rectifier. In the end I headed north without my parcel as DHL and the Customs agent were unable to deliver the goods in time and I could not afford any more delays even though I had paid the required duty and fees.
I find the Aduna office after driving around for over an hour and then wait a further hour for my bike import document. I leave the Aduna by 1030 hrs and make it to the Costa Rica border by 1200 hrs ( 50 Kms). I drive to the front of the car/lorry queue and there a young guy offers to help me do both border formalities for US$20. I accept as don't want any more hassle today even though I know it's a bit much. I get my exit stamp without any problems then move on to have the bike fumigated and pay US$2.65 the mist on the bike is so little it doesn't even get wet. I ask him to do it again so I can take a photo. The two border controls are 200 metres apart.
1st I have to buy Costa Rica bike insurance for US$17 and then show my permit and fumigation certificates and photocopies of my driving licence, passport, V5 to get my temporary bike import document. The exit /entry procedure at both points takes a total of 90 minutes. I have only been in Panama for one day. I then manage to buy 12 Panama flag stickers for US$1 ( bargain).
I pay my helper and think it was worth the expense as all borders are slightly different, I get 50,000 from the 2 local ATM but have no idea of the exchange rate and leave the border at 1400 hrs. It is again very hot and sweaty and I'm just dripping in sweat.
The roads are good and fast until Palmar Norte and then head inland and up into the mountains over rivers but not too steep so still good going and not difficult to get pasted lorries. Go though a town called Buenos Aires and then the mountain roads very very cold with thick cloud cover. I have to stop to put on a thick thermal jacket and am still cold and now there is lots of slow moving traffic that I can not get passed as it is impossible to see past one lorry length.
I proceed with the flow to Cartago which is a long way and at Cartago I fill up with super fuel as have been running on reserve for about 60 kms. I decide to head for San Jose and find a hotel there. The 1st one is full so I go another 9 blocks and finally find a very nice but very expensive hotel (US$52). I just can't be bothered to go any further tonight, I have been rushing as I am very aware now late I am and now many more miles I still have to cover. 5 years ago my trip was always going to be 4 months, but just before I left I agreed rather naively to reduce it to 3 months. In hind sight even 4 months was too short for such a distance. That night I discover I have a large wound on my right inside ankle. I was wondering why it was so sore. It is like a burn about 40mm in diameter. I dress the wound and go for a Japanese meal which is very good and a nice change.
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