The approach to Machu Picchu on the bike

At the railway station we are met by a small group who tell us we may continue along the railway line if we can get passed the railway lines and rocks placed across the railway bridge and the points. We soon clear a path which surprises them ( railway lines are bloody heavy) and then the railway guard changes his mind after we have one bike over three sets of lines in the station and just at the start of the official Inca trail. The guard radios his head office in Cusco we think and calls for reinforcements, more bodies arrive and say they are going to call the police, the take our pictures, so Roly takes pictures of them all and then Greg starts to talk/ bribe the guard to let us pass. Disappointed we turn back and return to a wire/wood suspension bridge and take photos of the bikes crossing the river Urubamba ( considered to be the most important river in the Andes and that flows out to the Amazon and then the Atlantic Ocean). We then drive right though the Sacred Valley to the east ( the log way) and return to Cusco for 1828 hrs.
Roly has to drive flat out at 7000 rpm to keep up with Greg and Dave brings up the rear ( Roly´s speedo doesn´t work) Roly returns the bike for the agreed return time of 1830 hrs ( 2 mins to spare!) The whole day was good fun and great to have no traffic, lots of sun plus a little cloud cover in the high mountains.
After the return of the hire bike we all settle for an Indian where we can also check out e-mails on a fast computer. We still have no replies from Thunderoad Motorcycles, David Silver Spares or Dakar Motors so feel very isolated and let down. We all go for a full body Massage for 30 Sols each for one hour. We are all in the same room seperated by sheet walls, we agree it was excellant value. I have managed to get all 4 memory cards from our two cameras copied onto a DVD dics ( 2 copies) and Special Agent Greg has agreed to send one via US mail to Jeanne ( via diplomatic post) and the 2nd copy Dave will post to Vicky. Can´t say any more about Greg other wise we would have to kill you. Just like CSI and NSCI or what ever those US programs that are always on TV at home.

8th Feb
0530 hrs Greg leaves Cusco for La Paz and thinks he will do the trip in one day and be there this afternoon ( never queues at borders and has diplomatic passport and registered bike- lucky bugger). Roly looks around the cathedrals in the main Plaza as the doors are open for prayers from 0600 - 1000 hrs. Tourists are meant to pay 24 Sols after 1000 hrs to look around. Buildings quite impressive, but full of Gold guilt and dark oil paintings including the last supper with roast guinia pig.
At 0830 a guide collects us to go on a two day white water rafting trip (US$70 each) we walk across the main plaza and meet the rest of the group then walk about 10 blocks to the waiting bus. The bus journey takes one and half hours and we arrive at Cusipata where the company has a camp site along the edge of the river. We are all issued Wetsuits, jackets, helmets and lifejackets and then get a quick lesson on white water rafting. We are on the water by midday in blue Hypalon rafts made in the USA. There are 7 in each raft ( one instructor steering/ centre back) and we are going to go down a grade 2/3 river for about 2 and half hours with a quick stop at a thermal pool. The day was good fun but a little cold as little sun, we came back for a late lunch of roast chichen pieces cooked in a 44 gal drum as a oven over a fire. Dave and I are the only ones in the group staying on for a 2nd day. The Guide ( Daniel) and assistant/cook ( Daniella) then walk us up along the river to the local town to the pub to try the local drink Chicha ( made of maize in 24 hrs). Chicha (5% proof unless they add 96% achacol, which they do some times) is very sticky,the colour of white coffee but sweet and I think more like gone off cider. The pub is dark but quite a few are drinking plenty of Chicha which cost about 1 Sol (6:1) for 5 pints. We are shown back into the rear kitchen ( a black hole with no windows) where two large pots of the drink are being made over an open fire. We also see the maize and corn in other pots and none look very apertising. We later discover Chicha gives you excessive gas in the stomach! ( good job we have seperate tents tonight). The town streets are full of trenches, pigs, chichens, bulls, dogs and sheep. Two days a month all the community come togehter to carry out a comminity project and this month they are installing a new water and drainage system. The street and alleys are a filthy big mud pie but where else in the world could you get a full turn out of the village to dig trenches in the rain. We return to the camp site via the town streets and market and then check out the home made sauna, a building of rocks, cement and ply with a large welded steel pipe wood burner in one corner. We sit around chatting and then eat at 2000 hrs great meal of soup and sweet and sour chicken with rice and chips. No beer or wine tonight!

9th Feb
Roly up again before any one else, so write and read and then we all have breakfast at 0930. Pancakes, butter, jam, porriage, bread and coffee ( a real feast). We then lie around in the sun or shade until the 2nd group arrives at 1100 hrs. Every one gets ready and today two rafts, 2 kayaks and 1 ducky are going up river to a grade 4 section. It is a nice hot sunny day and Dave and Roly are asked to take front row raft positions ( best place) Roly in blue helment when you see the pictures). Great rapids but latter gets a little cold as the sun goes in. we are all cold so all rush for the sauna where we all squash in before lunch of Oil drum chicken ( very good though).
Aout 1600 hrs we all catch the bus back to Cusco and we notice there have been heavy rains, mud slides, car crashes and even snow on the hills around Cusco. In Cusco itself it had been hailing. Check e-mail still no replies so send emergency text to about 4 people requesting help.
We get three replies from Michael (brother) Steve Leach (Plymouth bike service guy) and Tim Orsman ( Transalp man). Back at the hostal we discover that the man from Norton Rats is coming around at 2000 hrs. We go out and collect two CD´s ( 10 Sols each) of the Rafting photos which we think are very good ( in post to Jeanne and Vicky).