Trip to Jungle and another breakdown

Roly up at sunrise, Mike ( Canadian with BMW 1150GS) was meant to have left Cusco, but there may be another demonstration in the streets blocking access to the city. Roly visits South American Explorers (Club member) and finds out about a small road into the jungle north west of Cusco to a town called Huancacalle. We decide to visit there tommorow to fill in another day while waiting for parts for the Honda from DHL. Dave bleeds the brakes on the Yamaha. We do some research on getting to Panama and all does not seem that easy even though only a month ago other bikers had managed to fly for between US$ 425 and 480 per bike. Dave wants to be home by end of March and Roly is running another Hyperbaric course in Great Yarmouth on the 14th April so it looks like we will be back the 1st week of April if we can get out flights sorted on Monday in Lima. We both would like to fly direct to Guatemala to save a little time, but this seems to be impossible. Another UK couple arrive on a Susuki V Storm. The bike was Texas registered and they flew there from Liverpool and bought the bike at the start of their trip. Tey tell us all about Equador and Columbia and alos the best Mayan temples in Central America.

We tonight pack the bikes without panniers and only a tank bag and a Gul drybag for our trip into the jungle tommorow. I think we have both had enough of Cusco and may be of each other so will be good to get out of the city again. We are having another of our non communication days!
Tonight as special treat we have a couple of Gin and tonics each at 15 sols each (6:1) ( like water).

16th Feb
Up 0550 hrs and we are ready to leave by 0700 hrs, we fill up with 84 octane petrol ( best we can get) and Roly on bike receives a nudge by a blind driver of a Nissan mini bus so gives the driver a bit of this mind and then we leave and head towards the Sacred Valley. The fill of Roly´s bike only is 51 sols. We pass though Urubamba and then Ollantaytambo where we get American breakfast for 8 sols each. After breakfast at 0915 we head north to Chaullay up very steep switch backs in the mountains and up to 4300 metres, the road is all good tarmac for 160 kms and then suddenley becomes gravel and pot holes. We buy our first petrol from a petrol station which uses a jug and old cotton rag to filter it. Measures are aprox ( they use gallons in Peru) and we pay 78 Sols for about 30 litres. We think we are at Ipal. We arrive at Chaullay and turn left over a bridge and proceed along a small track though the jungle, there are banana plantations. The track is very rough but OK for trucks and motorbikes ( and Nissan minibuses). After about another 60 kms we arrive at Huancacalle and find the only hostal (Sixpac Manco). Dave doesn´t like the look of it so we move on to the next vilage to find an alternative. Ther next vilage is caled Vilcabamba ( this was the last city of the Incas). Vilcabamba was even higher than Huancacalle and the track even narrower and rougher but still usuable by a 4 x 4 or small truck. It turns out there is no hostal in the town and the large building turns out to be a mission. We return to Huancacalle and book into the only hostal. There is no electricity tonight in the whole village and we are feed a set menu by candle light. The meal is soup for starters followed by Fish, omlete, chips and rice and all for 16 Sols which was good. Roly cleaned his plate dry ( Dave had some trouble with some bones). Tonight Dave was concerened about the unwanted creapy crawlies in our room so he had the candle by his bed until it expired in the early hours. The hotel was comfy and dispite its initial appearance was very good, the people were very friendly and feed us well and although nthey spoke no English we all made ourselves under stood. (One of the guests lived in Lima and had worked in Canada so spoke some English).
17th Feb
We have decided to spend the day doing our own thing. Roly will visit the local Inca ruins and explore the area today and Dave will return to Cusco.
Roly leaves the hotel 0600 hrs and walks to the top of the local hill where there is a Inca town called Vitcos and then down the other side to Rosapata and Nusta Espana. At Nusta Espana there is a huge single Granite block that has been carved with old shapes and seats cut into blocks all around.
I return to the hostal (0915) and have a good breakfast of omlete with rice plus coffee. I settle the bill which is 46 Sols for us both including all meals.
Dave left for Cusco at 0800 hrs. I decide to carry on again so drive up to Vilcabamba and over the other side of the mountain where there is a deep, wide fast moving stream. I drive through the stream with my feet down in the water helping to keep the bike upright. and then head up again into the next mountain.
I carry on along the track for a long way ( which according to the map does not exist, it should be a foot path only). I pass farms and finally drop down into a lost valley, there appears to be more of the same as far as I could see so I decide to turn around ( I am the only traffic and going down into a remote valley may not be too wise) at Mollipunka and head back to the gravel road where there is a turning South to Santa Teresa ( may be back route to Machu Picchu). I notice that my chain needs adjusting again as its making as hell of a noise but I decide to leave it after stopping several times to check it and it doesn´t seem that bad. I finally find a good spot on the narrow track, in the shade where I can get the bike onto the centre stand and the back whel off the ground. I soon discover the chain is fine, but the rear wheel bearing one side has collapsed. I have a spare but we left the panneirs behind to reduce weight and that means they are now 220 kms away. I manage to drive the bike another 4 kms to the next village called Paltaybamba. The brake pad is wearing a small groove in the inner wheel rim. I can not continue so stop for a drink or 2 of Inca Kola at the local shop and after much sign laungauge the lady who owns the shop tells me she is also the church key keeper. She lets me put the bike into the church ( corragated iron roof) after offering to put it in her shop and deciding it would not fit or get up the huge steps or even though the small entrance door. I put the bike in the church and removed the rear wheel ( with some willing unwanted help which later proved to be a slight problem). The church was locked and I agreed to return within the next 2 days to collect the bike (Today was Sunday). I catch a lorry to the next village ( no buses out here). The lorries move bananas, rice, fire wood, people, dogs, chickens etc. between the villages and every one stands or sits in the back wherever thay can hold on. Best to stand though as little suspention. Its now 1330 hrs and I end up catching three lorries to just above the town of Maranura which is the wrong way. I then catch a Nissan minbus to Santa Maria which is just passed Chaullay. Each lorry ride would normally be 1 Sol or less and the minibus about 2 sols. I gave about each 5 Sols and was at one stop given a large mug of Chicha ( maize drink) after helping an old man off load his fire wood. At Santa Maria I manage to catch the night bus to Cusco as my minibus driver stops in front of the large 50 seater bus as he is about to leave. I buy a ticket in the local shop for 15 sols and am given a front seat, but 3 or 4 people have to stand for the 11 hour journey. (I had put my wheel in the cargo area and boarded the bus before I knew I had to buy the ticket in the shop so had a lot of trouble getting off the bus while every one was trying to board).
The bus was horrible dirty and smelly, with a wall behind the driver and small door which ws locked once we left town.